Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
decor and design trends have finally, albeit belatedly (Studio only opened in 2006)
arrived in Bulgaria. A stone's throw from the Cathedral and the Tsaravets fortress (of
which some of the rooms have great views; book over the weekend in season and catch
the light show from your bed), the renovators have very skillfully gutted an old late-19th
century building, leaving the exterior intact—it's not a cutting-edge concept, but the
combination of old, traditional facade hiding an übermodern interior is as exhilarating
as ever. The palette is restrained (predominantly black, white, and gray) but playful, as
evidenced by the plentiful touches of red (like the gorgeous '70s-retro bedside lights in
bright red, set against baroque-patterned black-and-white wallpaper). Bathroom fittings
are predictably sleek and modern (these are quite possibly the best showers to be had in
Bulgaria) and the whole experience one of restrained luxury.
4 Todor Lefterov St.
&
062/604010
or 062/604009. www.studiohotel-vt.com. 13 units. 100lev-120lev
($64-$77/£35-£41) double. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; lobby bar; bar terrace; room service; laundry.
In room:A/C, TV, minibar, Internet connection.
Tsaravets
The best thing about the Tsaravets is its owner-manager, the gor-
geous Ms. Anguelova, who is not only passionate about her town, but—having spent
several years in the hospitality industry in London—a superb hotelier who has grasped
that the guest is king. After being “tolerated” by so many Bulgarian hotels it's a breath
of fresh air to be welcomed with so much sincerity. The handpicked staff is warm,
without being sycophantic, and will take care of your restaurant bookings, discuss
with you in detail how to prioritize your time, and provide free transport to anything
in town that isn't walking distance. The hotel, built in 1891 for the grand Bulgaria
Insurance Company, is also well located in the old part of town—a minute's walk
from the Tsaravets fortress gates; 5 minutes from Rakovski Street. It's a small, intimate
place, with comfortably furnished, compact rooms (grander than Gurko). Shower
rooms are on the small side (it's hard to take a shower without wetting the toilet paper)
but Ms. Anguelova plans to update these in 2007.
23 Chitalistna St., Veliko Tarnavo.
&
062/601885
or 062/605655. www.tsarevetshotel.com. 9 units. 65
€
($83) dou-
ble. MC, V.
Amenities:
Breakfast room/lobby bar; concierge and booking service; room service; Internet access; laun-
dry; dry cleaning. In room:A/C, TV, minibar, safe, hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
The best restaurants all offer wonderful views of the terraced city as it tumbles down
to the Yantra below—to make sure you have a table on the edge of the terrace (and
believe us, you do) ask your hotel or driver to book 1 or 2 days in advance, and call
again to confirm. If neither Ego or Shtastlivetsa has a table on the terrace, try
Rich
(1 Yantra St., located down a flight of steps opposite the Stambolisky monument;
&
062/27980
), owner-managed, exceptionally good value, and superb views on the
terrace. Whichever restaurant you choose, make sure you end up on cobbled Rakovski
Street at
Stratilat,
Veliko Tarnovo's most happening cafe, and collapse in a wicker
chair for a postprandial espresso.
Ego
BULGARIAN/PIZZA This large airy space, with large doors that
slide away to the outdoor terrace that perches high above the Yantra, its railings deco-
rated with flowering geranium boxes, is just the ticket as the sun goes down. Ego has
a huge menu—85 salads alone—and everything is super fresh; waitresses don't speak
much English, but service is fast and friendly. If you're here in summer, temperatures
will no doubt be sweltering: opt for the refreshing Tambaktu salad—mango with
greens, chopped cucumber, and crumbled blue cheese—or the tasty Ego—a bulgur
Value
