Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
what draws local pilgrims is its 14th-century Virgin Mary icon—said to be a portrait
painted by the Apostle Luke, pilgrims believe that it has miraculous properties.
Besides Sveta Bogoroditsa, the complex also has two smaller churches: Church of the
Archangels (13th-14th c.), located next to the main church, and Church of St. Niko-
lai (1834-37), in the adjoining courtyard. The latter is worth visiting for the murals,
said to be the first documented work by Zahary Zograf and featuring a portrait of the
artist in the upper left hand corner of the Last Judgment mural that dominates the
porch. You can also enter the refectory (4lev/$3/£1.40) where you will find murals of
the great Greek philosophers. The monastery is still home to men in flowing black cas-
socks and gray beards, but today they are vastly outnumbered by tourists and pilgrims
lined up to see the icon or to fill their plastic water bottles with the delicious mineral
water that runs continuously from the monastery's piped spring.
Tip: The walkway to the monastery gates are lined with dozens of small stalls sell-
ing various bits of tourist knickknacks as well as Rhodopean specialties and delicious
fast foods; on weekends it can be a bit of a nightmare with blaring music and throng-
ing crowds; for a more convivial atmosphere and decent service, keep heading down-
hill to Vodopada. Principally a huge outdoor terrace situated around a waterfall and
trout-filled pond, you can't miss it, and the food here is excellent. Bizarrely there is no
English menu, but ask for Lily, the can-do English-speaking waitress, and order the
house specialties: marinated mushrooms, followed by charcoal-grilled fresh trout or
spit-grilled lamb.
30km/19 miles south of Plovdiv, clearly signposted off the main road connecting Assenovgrad and Smolyan.
& 03327/277. Daily 7am-8pm.
Kazanluk Tomb Kazanluk, center of the rose-growing plains that
surround it, was until recently more strongly associated with the overrated Festival of
Roses, which takes place here every June. But the past decade has seen an increasing
number of Thracian vaults, hidden beneath the burial mounds scattered throughout
the surrounding countryside, excavated, and the area is increasingly referred to as the
Valley of Kings (see “Thracian Tombing: Exploring the Graves of Europe's First Civ-
ilization”? below). The first to be discovered was in Kazanluk way back in 1944, when
soldiers attempted to dig out an air-raid bunker on what was then the outskirts of
town. Listed by UNESCO, but off-limits to the general public before 2006, an exact
replica was built in 1978. This bizarrely is still the main museum, staffed and open
daily; while you need to call ahead to arrange to view the original—be sure to do this,
because it is an incredible experience standing in the small domed chamber
(approached through a slim corridor-like antechamber—very Temple of Doom ) to view
ceiling frescoes—so close you can almost touch them—dating from the late 4th cen-
tury B . C . The man seated, his arm entwined around that of a pale women, thought to
be his wife, while a servant offers him a plate of pomegranates (traditionally associated
with immortality) is thought to be the nobleman who was buried here.
Tip: If all this ancient history has built up an appetite, Hadji Eminova kushta,
part of the Ethnographic Museum Complex ( & 0431/62595 )—a short stroll from
the tomb—is by far the prettiest spot to lunch in town, with the restaurant compris-
ing a few tables ranged around the verdant and tree-shaded garden, and along the deep
timber porch; cuisine—typical Bulgarian—is good, too. For overnight details, see the
“Thracian Tombing: Exploring the Graves of Europe's First Civilization” box, below.
Tyulbe Park (300m/984 ft. from town center). Tomb replica May-Oct 9am-5pm; 5lev ($3.50/£1.90). To view the origi-
nal call & 0431/63762; 20lev ($13/£7).
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