Bulgaria - Eastern Europe - page 96

designed the village church's bell tower (from which the peals still emanate every Sun),
and until recently the property of the Union of Bulgarian Architects, it is a truly
authentic example of Bansko's 19th-century residences—almost totally unrenovated,
with solid stone walls and heavy woodwork. Note though that only the two rooms on
the second floor (nos. 5 and 6) are worth booking—these have enough light (rooms
below are dark) and open onto a wide veranda with rustic tables and chairs that over-
look the untended stone-walled garden. The charming Marin (enough English to get
by), makes a delicious home-brewed rakia (brandy); if he knows you know, he's sure
to offer.
“NEW” BANSKO
The four-star Hotel Perun ( & 0749/88477; www.hotelperunbansko.com) is very
much a Kempinski wannabe—without the class, staff, or view. But it is a rather smart-
looking alpine edifice, a 10-minute walk from the gondola station (or you can use the
hotel's shuttle bus service), and has (after Kempinski) the second-best facilities in town
(okay, Hotel Strazhite has a bowling alley, but you don't want to be stuck with that
decor). It's also the best value for your money, even in high season when rooms range
between 60

€ €

($77-$216). Families should book the Double Delux Rooms
with two separate rooms, each with its own bathroom. If you can forego hotel facili-
ties, and are planning to be here for more than a couple of days, Todorini Kuli apart-
ments ( & 0888 441005; www.todorinikuli.com) are the best deal in “new” Bansko,
offering excellent value and a great location directly opposite the Kempinski (50m/16
ft. from the Gondola station). Apartments are pretty characterless, but they are brand-
new, so finishes look fresh and equipment functions well. Couples should book room
no. 2, the biggest; families should opt for a one-bedroom apartment, with separate
bedroom and open-plan lounge (with fireplace), dining room, and kitchen—no. 15 is
a good option. Rates, depending on size and season, range between 10

and 170

€ and 140 €

($13-$178).
Kempinski Hotel Grand Arena “Excellent position, great staff; pricey
though,” reads one review, and that just about sums up the Kempinski. This five-star
hotel has set the bar high, bringing to Bansko the joys of a grand foyer bar, a wellness
center with extensive treatments, and a huge indoor pool. Typical of many chain
hotels, rooms are bland and characterless but large and luxurious with balconies from
which to enjoy the town's only truly unobstructed mountain views, and various din-
ing options (the latter admittedly overpriced given what's available a 15-min. walk
down the hill). The location is unbeatable, and thankfully this is one that will remain
so: right on the western edge the hotel is almost butted up against the Gondola sta-
tion so you can literally ski down the mountain directly into the hotel's “ski room,”
then stroll over to the bar for a poste-piste celebration. Note: Under no circumstances
should you get landed with a room facing back into town; book a full mountain-fac-
ing room, and stick to your guns; also specify if you want a nonsmoking room.
96 Pirin St., Bansko. & 0749/88888. Fax [phone]. www.kempinski-bansko.com. 159 units. Deluxe and execu-
tive rooms 220 ($394-$597) suite. Rates include breakfast. Check for

summer specials. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking and garage. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; 2 lounges; outdoor and
indoor pools, tennis court; fitness center; Jacuzzi; steam room and sauna; Kneipp wading basin; conference center;
shops; salon; solarium; kids' club; concierge; babysitting; laundry; dry cleaning. In room:A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer,
safe, wireless Internet connection.

€ -270 € ($280-$343) double; 310 € -470 €

Roka Villa If you care at all about design, this is without a doubt the top
choice in town (though a little far from the gondola station, but the hotel offers a

Finds