Fiordland & Southland - New Zealand's South Island - page 588

The Waipapa Point lighthouse dates from 1884, three years after the wreck of SS Tararua .
Information panels recount the terrible tale, in which 131 people lost their lives. Tiptoe
through the sea lions to survey the beach.
Follow the signs to Slope Point , the South Island's true southerly point. A 20-minute walk
across farmland leads to a signpost designating this landmark in underwhelming fashion.
The views more than make up for it, not only of the ocean but of the chunky rocks tum-
bling down to meet it. The track is closed in September and October for lambing.
Further east at Curio Bay , fossilised Jurassic-age trees are visible for four hours either
side of low tide. Yellow-eyed penguins waddle ashore here an hour or so before sunset.
Do the right thing and keep your distance. Backing on to Curio is Porpoise Bay , a popular
travellers' stop with numerous accommodation options. Blue penguins nest in the dunes
and in summer Hector's dolphins come here to rear their young. Whales are occasional
visitors, and fur seals and sea lions may also be seen. There's safe swimming on the
beach, and an excellent surf school.
The next civilised stop is Waikawa , which has a small museum, information centre, some
accommodation and a takeway. Keep on trucking to McLean Falls . The car park is 4km off
the highway, with the falls themselves a 40-minute return walk through tree ferns and
rimu.
Cutting back 150m into cliffs, the huge, arched Cathedral Caves ( www.cathedralcaves.co.nz ; adult/
child $5/1) are only accessible for two hours either side of low tide (tide timetables are pos-
ted on the website, at the highway turn-off and at visitor facilities). From SH92 it's 2km to
the car park, then a ferny 15-minute walk down to the beach - rather stunning in itself -
and a further five minutes to the caves.
Around 6km further east, an easy forest walk leads to the dark peaty waters of Lake
Wilkie (20 minutes return). Bellbirds may ring. Another 1km further along the highway, a
short gravel road leads to sweeping Tautuku Bay , which can also be viewed from on high at
the Florence Hill Lookout just before the descent into Papatowai.
The must-see in Papatowai is the Lost Gypsy Gallery ( 03-415 8908; SH92; 10am-5pm Thu-Tue,
closed May-Sept; ) . Fashioned from remaindered bits and bobs, artist Blair Sommerville's
intricately crafted automata are wonderfully irreverent. The bamboozling collection in the
bus (free entry) is a teaser for the carnival of creations through the gate ($5 entry, children
under 12 not allowed). The buzz, bong and bright lights of the organ are bound to tickle
your ribs. Espresso caravan and wi-fi on site.