The West Coast - New Zealand's South Island - page 214

THE GREAT COAST ROAD

There are fine views all the way along this beautiful stretch of SH6, although its most fam-
ous attractions are the geologically fascinating Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. Fill up in
Westport if you're low on petrol and cash - there's no fuel until Runanga, 92km away, and
the next ATM is in Greymouth.

TOP OF CHAPTER

Westport to Punakaiki
Set on 42 serene hectares, 17km south of Westport, the solar-powered, energy-efficient
Beaconstone Eco Lodge ( 027 431 0491; www.beaconstoneecolodge.co.nz ; Birds Ferry Rd; dm $28-31, d $70-74;

Oct-May; ) is a bushy retreat with touches of Americana cool. Inside are cosy beds
and a laid-back communal area, while beyond the doorstep are bush walks leading to
peaceful river swimming holes. There's only room for 14, so booking is recommended.
Jack's Gasthof ( 03-789 6501; www.jacksgasthof.co.nz ; SH6; mains $12-28; from 11am Oct-Apr) is
21km south of Westport on the Little Totara River, where Berliners Jack and Petra run their
eternally popular pizzeria with adjacent bar improbably bejewelled with a disco ball. Avail
yourself of campsites (from $6) and a basic room ($50) if you require a sleepover.
For a true taste of the region's gold mining past, swing into Mitchell's Gully Gold Mine
( www.mitchellsgullygoldmine.co.nz ; SH6; adult/child $10/free; 9am-5pm) , 22km south of Westport,
where you'll meet a pioneer's descendants and explore the family mine. There are interest-
ing tales, relics, tunnels and railtracks, plus a giant waterwheel and the odd trap-door
spider.
The next stop is Charleston , 26km south of Westport. It's hard to believe it now, but this
place boomed during the 1860s gold rush, with 80 hotels, three breweries and hundreds of
thirsty gold-diggers staking claims along the Nile River. There's not much left now except
a motel, campground, a clutch of local houses and the brilliant Norwest Adventures ( Click
here ) with whom you can explore some utterly amazing hidden treasures.
From here to Punakaiki is a staggeringly beautiful panorama of lowland pakihi scrub and
lush green forest alongside a series of bays dramatically sculpted by relentless ocean fury.
Drive as slowly as the traffic behind you will allow.