Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Drinks, Anyone?
Gujarat is India's only dry state but there are drinking laws in place all over the country,
and each state may have regular dry days when the sale of alcohol from liquor shops is
banned. To avoid paying high taxes, head for Goa, where booze isn't subject to the exorbit-
ant levies of other states.
You'll find impressive watering holes in most big cities, especially Mumbai and
Bengaluru (Bangalore), which are usually at their liveliest on weekends. The more upmar-
ket bars serve a great selection of domestic and imported drinks as well as draught beer.
Many bars turn into music-thumping nightclubs anytime after 8pm although there are quiet
lounge-bars to be found in most large cities. In smaller towns the bar scene can be a seedy,
male-dominated affair - not the kind of place thirsty female travellers should venture into
alone.
Wine-drinking is steadily on the rise, despite the domestic wine-producing industry still
being relatively new. The favourable climate and soil conditions in certain areas - such as
parts of Maharashtra and Karnataka - have spawned some commendable Indian wineries
including those of the Grover and Sula Vineyards.
Stringent licensing laws discourage drinking in some restaurants but places that depend
on the tourist rupee may covertly serve you beer in teapots and disguised glasses - but
don't assume anything, at the risk of causing offence.
Very few vegetarian restaurants serve alcohol.
THE GREAT SOUTH INDIAN THALI
In South India the thali is a favourite lunchtime meal. Inexpensive, satiating, wholesome and incredibly tasty, this
is Indian food at its simple best. Whereas in North India the thali is usually served on a steel plate with indentations
for the various side dishes (thali gets its name from the plate), in the south a thali is traditionally served on a flat
steel plate that may be covered with a fresh banana leaf. Or on a banana leaf itself.
In a restaurant, when the steel plate is placed in front of you, you may like to follow local custom and pour some
water on the leaf then spread it around with your right hand. Soon enough a waiter with a large pot of rice will
come along and heap mounds of it onto your plate, followed by servings of dhal,
sambar
(soupy lentils),
rasam
(dhal-based broth flavoured with tamarind), vegetable dishes, chutneys, pickles and
dahi
(curd/yoghurt). Using the
fingers of your right hand, start by mixing the various side dishes with the rice, kneading and scraping it into
mouth-sized balls, then scoop it into your mouth using your thumb to push the food in. It is considered poor form
to stick your hand right into your mouth or to lick your fingers. Observing fellow diners will help get your thali
technique just right. If it's all getting a bit messy, there should be a finger bowl of water on the table. Waiters will
continue to fill your plate until you wave your hand over one or all of the offerings to indicate you have had
enough.
