Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MIDDLE & NORTH ANDAMAN
The Andamans aren't just sun and sand. They're also jungle that feels as primeval as the
Jurassic, a green tangle of ancient forest that could have been birthed in Mother Nature's
subconscious. This shaggy, wild side of the islands can be seen on a long, loping bus ride
up the Andaman Trunk Rd (ATR), framed by antediluvian trees and roll-on, roll-off ferries
that cross red-tannin rivers prowled by saltwater crocodiles.
But there's a negative side to riding the ATR: the road cuts through the homeland of the
Jarawa and has brought the tribe into incessant contact with the outside world. Modern In-
dia and tribal life do not seem able to coexist - every time Jarawa and settlers interact, mis-
understandings have led to friction, confusion and, at worst, violent attacks and death. Indi-
an anthropologists and indigenous rights groups such as Survival International have called
for the ATR to be closed; its status continues to be under review at time of writing. At
present, vehicles are permitted to travel only in convoys at set times from 6am to 3pm.
Photography is strictly prohibited, as is stopping or any other interaction with the Jarawa
people - who are becoming increasingly reliant on handouts from passing traffic.
The first place of interest north of Port Blair is the impressive
limestone caves
( closed Mon)
at Baratang. It's a 45-minute boat trip (?300) from the jetty, a scenic trip through mangrove
forest. A permit is required, organised at the jetty.
Rangat
is the next main town, a transport hub with not much else going for it. If you do
get stuck here,
UK Nest
( 9434276356; Rangat; r from ?400)
has clean rooms. There's an ATM
nearby. Ferries depart Long Island (?7) from Yeratta Jetty, 8km from Rangat. Otherwise
Rangat Bay, 10km outside town, has ferries to/from Port Blair (?55, six hours) and Have-
lock (?195, two hours). A daily bus goes to Port Blair (?95, seven hours) and Diglipur (?90,
four hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Long Island
With its friendly island community and lovely slow pace of life, Long Island is perfect for
those wanting to take the pace down even a few more notches. Other than the odd motor-
cycle, there's no motorised vehicles on the island, and at times you may be the only tourist
here.
