Tamil Nadu & Chennai - South India and Kerala - page 791

Bangala
( 04565-220221; www.thebangala.com ; Devakottai Rd, Karaikkudi; r ?6400; ) This lovingly re-
stored whitewashed 'bungalow' isn't a typical mansion but has all the requisite charm,
with quirky decorations, antique furniture and fascinating old family photos. It's famous
for its food: the ?700 set lunch or dinner is actually a Chettiar wedding feast and worth
every single paisa (it's available to nonguests from noon to 3pm for ?1000; call at least
two hours ahead). The Bangala has a lovely pool and there's free in-room wi-fi.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

Saratha Vilas
( 9884203175, 9884936158; www.sarathavilas.com ; 832 Main Rd, Kothamangalam; r incl breakfast ?6050-7060;
) A different style of Chettiar charm inhabits this French-run mansion 6km east of
Kanadukathan. Rooms combine traditional and contemporary with distinct French pan-
ache and the food is an enticing mix of Chettiar and French. The owners are very active in
the conservation and promotion of Chettinad heritage through the NGO ArcHeS ( www.arche-
s.com ) , which they founded (and which has volunteer openings for the likes of historians,
geographers and architects, especially Tamil-speaking ones!).

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

Chidambara Vilas
( 0433-3267070; www.chidambaravilas.com ; TSK House, Kadiapatti; s/d incl breakfast ?11,000/12,000;
) This mansion in a village 5km east of Thirumayam has been restored into a luxurious
hotel with plenty of original Burmese teak, rosewood, stained glass and colourful paint-
work. Most rooms are in a new block but still full of Chettiar atmosphere, including punka
fans that you can operate yourself from your four-poster bed. A bar, pool and recreation
room help you to relax in style. Check for discount offers.

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$

Chettinadu Mansion
( 04565-273080; www.chettinadumansion.com ; 11 AR St, SARM House, Kanadukathan; s/d incl breakfast ?5200/
7050, half-board ?5800/8250; ) Slightly shabbier than some other Chettiar joints, but very
colourfully decorated, this century-old house is still owned by the original family. Service
is top-notch, and all 12 sizeable rooms have private balconies looking over other village
mansions. Wi-fi is ?100 per day. The owners also run Chettinadu Court ( 04565-283776;
www.deshadan.com ; Raja's St, Kanadukathan; s/d incl breakfast ?3350/3850, half-board ?3800/4750; ) a few
blocks away, with eight pleasant new rooms sporting a few heritage touches, and free wi-
fi.

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$