Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SOUTHERN TAMIL NADU
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Chettinadu
The Chettiars, a community of traders based in and around Karaikkudi, 95km south of
Trichy, really hit the big time back in the 19th century as financiers and entrepreneurs in
colonial Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia. They lavished their fortunes on building at least
10,000, maybe 20,000 opulent mansions in the 90-odd towns and villages of their rural
homeland, Chettinadu. No expense was spared on bringing the finest materials to adorn
these palatial homes - Burmese teak, Italian marble, Indian rosewood, Belgian chandeliers,
English steel, and art and sculpture from everywhere. In the aftermath of WW II, the Chet-
tiars' business networks collapsed and many families had to leave Chettinadu to seek new
opportunities. Disused mansions fell into decay and were demolished or sold off piecemeal.
Awareness of their value started to revive around the turn of the 21st century, and several
have now been turned into gorgeous heritage hotels where, among other things, you can en-
joy authentic Chetttinad cuisine, known throughout India for its brilliant use of spices.
Sights & Activities
Hotels can give cooking demos or classes, and provide bicycles or bullock carts for rural
rambles. They can also arrange visits to sari-weavers, temples, the Athangudi tileworks
(producing the colourful handmade tiles you see in many Chettiar mansions), and shrines
of the popular pre-Hindu deity Ayyanar (identifiable by their large terracotta horses, Ayy-
anar's vehicle). The antique shops in Karaikkudi's Muneeswaran Koil St will give you a
feel for how much of the Chettiar heritage is still being sold off.
The nondescript town of Pudukkottai, 51km south of Trichy and 44km north of
Karaikkudi, has historical significance in inverse proportion to its current obscurity; it was
the capital of the only princely state in Tamil Nadu to remain officially independent
throughout British rule.
Vijayalaya Cholisvaram
HINDU TEMPLE
