Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TRANQUIL TRANQUEBAR
South of Chidambaram the many-armed delta of the Cauvery River stretches 180km along the coast and deep into
the hinterland. The Cauvery is the beating heart of Tamil agriculture and its valley was the heartland of the Chola
empire. Today the delta is one of the prettiest, poorest and most traditional parts of Tamil Nadu.
Easily the most appealing base is the little coastal town of Tharangambadi, still mostly known by its old name
Tranquebar. A great place to recharge from the sweaty, crowded towns inland, this former Danish colony is quiet,
orderly, pretty and set right on a long sandy beach with a few fishing boats and delicious sea breezes. The old part
of town inside the 1791 Landporten gate makes an enjoyable stroll, and has seen a lot of restoration since the
2004 tsunami, which killed about 800 people here. INTACH Pondicherry ( Click here ) has an excellent download-
able map. The old Danish fort, Dansborg (Indian/foreigner ?5/50, camera/video ?30/100; 10am-1pm &
2-5.30pm Sat-Thu), dates from 1624 and contains an interesting little museum. Other notable buildings include
New Jerusalem Church (Tamil Evangelical Lutheran Church; King's St), an interesting mix of Indian and
European styles built in 1718, and the 14th-century beachside Masilamani Nathar Temple , recently repainted in
kaleidoscopic colours.
All accommodation is run by the Bungalow on the Beach ( 04364-288065; http://neemranahotels.com ; 24
King's St; r incl breakfast ?3600-7195, budget r ?990; ), in the former residence of the British administrat-
or (Denmark sold Tranquebar to the British East India Company in 1845). This amounts to 17 lovely heritage-
style rooms in the main building and two other locations in town, plus five clean, sizeable, budget rooms in the
Hotel Tamil Nadu, opposite the main building. All rooms are AC. The main building has a lovely swimming pool
and a good multicuisine restaurant (mains ?150-250;
7.30-9.30am, 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-9.30pm). For week-
ends and holidays you should book ahead.
Tranquebar is a good base for exploring the delta area. At Velankanni, 47km south, the Basilica of Our Lady
of Health stands where a young buttermilk boy glimpsed the Virgin Mary in the 16th century. The Virgin's image
supposedly has curative powers and this is a big pilgrimage spot, with some distinctly Hindu styles of worship. A
10-day festival culminates on 8 September. Tamil Nadu's largest temple chariot is hauled around Thiruvarur dur-
ing the Thyagararaja Temple's 10-day car festival in April/May.
Buses in this region are often extremely crowded, but Tranquebar has regular connections with Chidambaram
(?23, two hours, hourly) and Karaikal (?11, 30 minutes, half-hourly). From Karaikal there are buses to Kumbako-
nam (?26, 2¼ hours, 36 daily), Thanjavur (?68, 3½ hours, three daily) and Puducherry (?65, four hours, five
daily).
Sleeping & Eating
Many cheap pilgrims' lodges are clustered around the temple, but some of these are pretty
dire. If there's anywhere really nice to stay in Chidambaram, we haven't found it yet.
There are lots of cheap veg eats in the area surrounding the temple, but the best places to
eat are in hotels.
Hotel Saradharam
( 221336; www.hotelsaradharam.co.in ; 19 VGP St; r incl breakfast ?990, with AC ?2100; ) The busy,
friendly Saradharam is as good as it gets, and is conveniently located across from the bus
HOTEL $$
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