Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
several of which are endangered. There are thousands of reptiles here, including gharials
(a rare North Indian river crocodilian with a long, thin snout), Indian muggers (a marsh
croc) and saltwater crocs of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands - plus turtles, tortoises and
snakes. The Croc Bank has openings for volunteers with an interest in wildlife (minimum
two weeks): email volun
teer.mcbt@gmail.com
for more information if you're interested.
Nine kilometres past the Croc Bank (just 5km short of Mamallapuram), the
Tiger Cave
(Saluvankuppam; admission free; 6am-6pm)
is an unfinished but impressive rock-cut shrine,
probably dating from the 7th century. What's special is the 'necklace' of 11 monstrous
heads framing its central shrine-cavity. At the north end of the park-like grounds is a rock-
cut
Shiva shrine
from the same era. Just beyond this, outside the fence, lies the recently ex-
cavated
Subrahmanya Temple
, comprising an 8th-century granite shrine built over a Sangam-
era brick temple dedicated to Murugan, which is one of the two oldest known temples in
Tamil Nadu.
To reach these places, take any bus heading south from Chennai to Mamallapuram and
ask to be let off at the appropriate point(s). Another option is the TTDC's Chen-
nai-Mamallapuram round-trip bus tour (?275, 10 hours), which visits several of the sites
as well as Mamallapuram itself. A full-day taxi tour from Chennai costs around ?3000.
It's unwise to swim along the coast because of strong currents and tides.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
044 / POP 17,666
Mamallapuram was the major seaport of the ancient Pallava kingdom based at Kan-
chipuram, and a wander round the town's great, World Heritage-listed temples and
carvings inflames the imagination, especially at sunset.
And then, in addition to ancient archaeological wonders, there's the traveller ghetto of
Othavadai and Othavadai Cross Sts. Restaurants serve pasta, pizza and pancakes, shops
sell hand sanitiser and things from Tibet, and you know you have landed, once again, in
the Kingdom of Backpackistan.
'Mahabs', as some call it, is only two hours by bus from Chennai, and many travellers
make a beeline straight here. The town is small and laid-back, and its sights can be ex-
plored on foot or by bicycle.
