Travel Reference
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fascinating, rare art of Kalamkari (hand-painting on textiles with vegetable dyes). The
Thiruvanmiyur bus stand, terminus of many city bus routes, is 500m west of the Kalaksh-
etra entrance.
While here it's also worth visiting the Book Building ( 42601033; www.tarabooks.com ; Plot 9,
CGE Colony, Kuppam Beach Rd, Thiruvanmiyur; 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) , 700m south of Kalakshetra,
where Tara Books stages exhibitions and events as well as displaying its own highly ori-
ginal, attractive handmade books. With prior notice, you can visit the workshop where the
books are created (10 minutes' drive away).
HINDU TEMPLE
Kapaleeshwarar Temple
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(Ponnambala Vathiar St, Mylapore; 5am-noon & 4-9.30pm) The Mylapore neighbourhood is one of
Chennai's most characterful and traditional; it predated colonial Madras by several centur-
ies. Kapaleeshwarar Temple is Chennai's most active and impressive temple. It displays
the main architectural elements of many a Tamil Nadu temple - a rainbow-coloured gop-
uram (gateway tower), pillared mandapas (pavilions) inside and out, and a huge tank -
and it's dedicated to the state's most popular deity, Shiva. Legend tells that in a fit of
pique Shiva once turned his consort Parvati into a peacock, and instructed her to worship
him here in order to regain her normal form. Parvati supposedly did as instructed at a spot
just outside the northeast corner of the temple's central block, where a shrine commemor-
ates the event.
San Thome Cathedral
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( www.santhomechurch.com ; Santhome High Rd) This soaring Roman Catholic cathedral, a stone's
throw from the beach, was founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century, then rebuilt in
neo-Gothic style in the 1890s. Behind the cathedral is the entrance to the tomb of St Thomas
the Apostle MAP GOOGLE MAP (admission free; tomb & museum 6am-8.30pm) . It's believed 'Doubt-
ing Thomas' brought Christianity to the subcontinent and was killed at St Thomas Mount,
Chennai, in AD 72. Although most of his mortal remains are apparently now in Italy, a
small cross on the chapel wall containing a tiny bone fragment is marked 'Relic of St
Thomas'. A museum above contains various Thomas-related artefacts including the lance-
head believed to have killed him.
CHURCH
Sri Ramakrishna Math
HINDU TEMPLE
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