Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
in the vicinity. The easiest way to find out is to contact Kurien at Costa Malabari guest-
house or by asking at your accommodation.
Kerala Folklore Academy
( 04972778090; http://keralafolkloreakademy. com; Chirakkal)
At this training academy near
Chirakkal Pond Valapattanam, about 6km north of Kannur, you can see vibrantly coloured
folklore costumes up close and sometimes catch a performance.
ARTS SCHOOL
THEYYAM
Kerala's most popular ritualistic art form,
theyyam
is believed to pre-date Hinduism, originating from folk dances
performed during harvest celebrations. An intensely local ritual, it's often performed in
kavus
(sacred groves)
throughout northern Kerala.
Theyyam
refers both to the shape of the deity/hero portrayed, and to the actual ritual. There are around 450 dif-
ferent
theyyams
, each with a distinct costume; face paint, bracelets, breastplates, skirts, garlands and especially
headdresses are exuberant, intricately crafted and sometimes huge (up to 6m or 7m tall). During performances,
each protagonist loses their physical identity and speaks, moves and blesses the devotees as if they were that
deity. Frenzied dancing and wild drumming create an atmosphere in which a deity indeed might, if it so desired,
manifest itself in human form.
During October to May there are annual rituals at each of the hundreds of
kavus
.
Theyyams
are often held to
bring good fortune to important events such as marriages and housewarmings.
The best place for visitors to see
theyyam
is in village temples in the Kannur region of northern Kerala (most
frequently between late November and mid-April).
Although tourists are welcome to attend, this is not a dance performance but a religious ritual, and the usual
rules of temple behaviour apply: dress appropriately, avoid disturbing participants and villagers; refrain from dis-
plays of public affection. Photography is allowed but avoid using a flash.
Sleeping & Eating
Although there a plenty of hotels in Kannur, the best places to stay are homestays near the
beach at Thottada (8km south) and towards Thalassery.
4
Kannur Town
Hotel Meridian Palace
( 2761676;
www.hotelmeridianpalace.com
; Bellard Rd; s from ?300/400, with AC from ?900-1000)
In the mar-
ket area opposite the main train station, this is hardly palatial but friendly enough and of-
fers a cornucopia of clean budget rooms and a Punjabi restaurant.
HOTEL
$
Mascot Beach Resort
HOTEL
$$
