Kerala - South India and Kerala - page 587

KERALA'S BACKWATERS
The undisputed highlight of a trip to Kerala is travelling through the 900km network of waterways that fringe the
coast and trickle inland. Long before the advent of roads, these waters were the slippery highways of Kerala, and
many villagers still use paddle-power as their main form of transport. Trips through the backwaters traverse palm-
fringed lakes studded with cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, and wind their way along narrow, shady canals
where coir (coconut fibre), copra (dried coconut kernels) and cashews are loaded onto boats. Along the way are
isolated villages where farming life continues as it has for eons.
Tourist Cruises
The popular tourist cruise between Kollam and Alleppey (?400) departs from either end at 10.30am, arriving at
6.30pm, daily from August to March and every second day at other times. Generally, there's a 1pm lunch stop
(with a basic lunch provided) and a brief afternoon chai stop. The crew has an ice box full of fruit, soft drinks and
beer to sell, but it pays to bring snacks, sunscreen and a hat.
It's a scenic and leisurely way - the journey takes eight hours - to get between the two towns, but the boat
travels along only the major canals - you won't have many close-up views of the village life that makes the back-
waters so magical. Another option is to take the trip halfway (?250) and get off at the Matha Amrithanandamayi
Mission ( Click here ) and meet one of India's few female gurus.
Houseboats
If the stars align, renting a houseboat designed like a kettuvallam (rice barge) could well be one of the highlights
of your trip to India. It can be an expensive experience (depending on your budget) but for a couple on a romantic
overnight jaunt or split between a group of travellers, it's usually worth every rupee. Drifting through quiet canals
lined with coconut palms, eating delicious Keralan food, meeting local villagers and sleeping on the water - it's a
world away from the clamour of India.
Houseboats cater for couples (one or two double bedrooms) and groups (up to seven bedrooms!). Food (and an
onboard chef to cook it) is generally included in the quoted cost, as is a driver/captain. Houseboats can be
chartered through a multitude of private operators in Alleppey, Kollam and Kottayam. This is the biggest business
in Kerala: some operators are unscrupulous. The quality of boats varies widely, from rust buckets to floating
palaces - try to check out the boat before agreeing on a price. Travel-agency reps will be pushing you to book a
boat as soon as you set foot in Kerala, but it's better to wait till you reach a backwater hub: choice is greater in
Alleppey (an incredible 1000-plus boats and counting), and you're much more likely to be able to bargain down a
price if you turn up and see what's on offer. Most guesthouses and homestays can also book you on a houseboat.
In the high season you're likely to get caught in backwater-gridlock - some travellers are disappointed by the
number of boats on the water. It's possible to travel by houseboat between Alleppey and Kollam and all the way
to Kochi - the DTPC in Kollam can organise these trips. Expect a boat for two people for 24 hours to cost about
?5000 to ?8000 at the budget level; for four people, ?8000 to to ?12,000; for larger boats or for air-conditioning
expect to pay from ?12,000 to ?30,000. Shop around to negotiate a bargain - though this will be harder in the
peak season. Prices triple from around 20 December to 5 January.
Village Tours & Canoe Boats
More and more travellers are opting for village tours or canal-boat trips. Village tours usually involve small
groups of five to six people, a knowledgable guide and an open canoe or covered kettuvallam . The tours (from
Kochi, Kollam or Alleppey) last from 2½ to six hours and cost from around ?400 to ?800 per person. They in-
clude visits to villages to watch coir-making, boat building, toddy tapping and fish farming. The Munroe Island
trip from Kollam is an excellent tour of this type; the tourist desk in Ernakulam also organises recommended
tours.