Andhra Pradesh - South India and Kerala - page 520

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
GUNTUPALLI
Getting here is a very scenic adventure. The former monastic compound (Indian/foreigner ?5/100;
10am-5pm), high on a hilltop overlooking a vast expanse of forest and paddy fields, is noteworthy for its circular
rock-cut chaitya-griha . The cave's domed ceiling is carved with 'wooden beams' designed to look like those in a
hut. The chaitya-griha also has a well-preserved stupa and, like the monk dwellings that line the same cliff, a gor-
geous arched facade also designed to look like wood (note the 'rafters'). Also check out the stone 'beds' in the
monks' cells, and the compound's 60-plus votive stupas. The monastery was active from the 2nd century BC to
the 3rd century AD.
Guntupalli is best reached from Eluru, on the main Vijayawada-Visakhapatnam train line. From Vijayawada,
buses run half-hourly to Eluru (?50, 1½ hours); from here, take another bus to Kamavarapukota (?30, one hour,
half-hourly, 35km). Guntupalli is 10km west of Kamavarapukota; catch a local bus or autorickshaw. A private car
from Eluru costs around ?900 return.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Tirumala & Tirupathi
0877 / POP 287,000
The holy hill of Tirumala is, on any given day, filled with tens of thousands of blissed-out
devotees, many of whom have endured long journeys to see the powerful Lord Venkatesh-
wara here, at his home. It's one of India's most visited pilgrimage centres: 50,000 pilgrims
come each day, and darshan runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 14,000, and the effi-
cient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; 2233333, 2277777; www.tirumala.org ) brilliantly admin-
isters the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order,
serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfilling, even if
you're not a pilgrim.
'It is believed that Lord Sri Venkateshwara enjoys festivals', according to the TTD.
And so do his devotees: darshan queues during September/October's Brahmotsavam can run
up to several kilometres, with up to 500,000 people visiting a day.
Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants and trans-
port; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You'll find most
of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away,
the train station.
Sights