Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910-49). The
14,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, devo-
tional objects, Mughal miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and
textiles. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it's bedlam. From Abids, take bus
8 or 8A, which stop in front of the museum, or bus 7 to
Afzal Gunj bus stop
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on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.
Just west of the bridge (on the north side) is the spectacular
Osmania General Hospital
, and,
on the south, the
High Court
and
Government City College
, all built under the seventh nizam in
the Indo-Saracenic style.
HEH The Nizam's Museum
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(Purani Haveli; adult/student ?70/15, camera ?150; 10am-4.30pm Sat-Thu)
The 16th-century Purani
Haveli was home of the sixth nizam, Fath Jang Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869-1911). He was
rumoured to have never worn the same thing twice: hence the 72m-long, two-storey
Burmese teak wardrobe. In the palace's former servants' quarters are personal effects of
the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan, and gifts from his Silver Jubilee, lavish pieces that
include an art deco silver letterbox collection. The museum's guides do an excellent job
putting it all in context.
The rest of Purani Haveli is now a school, but you can wander around the grounds and
peek in the administrative building, the nizam's former residence.
Badshahi Ashurkhana
The 1594 Badshahi Ashurkhana (literally 'royal house of mourning') was one of the first
structures built by the Qutb Shahs in the new city of Hyderabad. It's easy to miss, set back
from the road in a corner of Charminar, but inside its walls are practically glowing with
intricate, brightly-coloured tile mosaic. Look closely to see the faux-tile painting at the
bottom: a 1908 flood destroyed the first two metres of tile. The Ashurkhana is packed dur-
ing Muharram, as well as on Thursdays, when local Shiites gather to commemorate the
martyrdom of Hussain Ibn Ali. You should remove your shoes and dress modestly (in-
cluding a headscarf for women).
HISTORIC BUILDING
Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum
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