Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Hampi and its neighbouring areas find mention in the Hindu epic Ramayana as Kishkinda,
the realm of the monkey gods. In 1336 Telugu prince Harihararaya chose Hampi as the
site for his new capital Vijayanagar, which - over the next couple of centuries - grew into
one of the largest Hindu empires in Indian history. By the 16th century it was a thriving
metropolis of about 500,000 people, its busy bazaars dabbling in international commerce,
brimming with precious stones and merchants from faraway lands. All this, however,
ended in a stroke in 1565, when a confederacy of Deccan sultanates razed Vijayanagar to
the ground, striking it a death blow from which it never recovered.
HAMPI BAZAAR
While in 1865 it was the Deccan sultanates who leveled Vijayanagar, today a different battle rages in Hampi
between conservationists bent on protecting Hampi's architectural heritage and the locals who have settled there.
In mid-2012 the master plan that had been in the works since mid-2000s, and which aims to classify all of
Hampi's ruins as protected monuments, was finally put into action. Overnight many shops, hotels and homes in
the bazaar were bulldozed, reducing the main strip to rubble overnight, as villagers who'd made the site a living
monument were evicted.
While villagers were compensated with a small plot of land in Kaddirampur, 4km from the bazaar (where there
is talk of new guesthouses eventually opening up), many locals remained displaced months later as they awaited
their pay out.
So what does this mean for tourism, and are any guesthouses remaining in Hampi Bazaar? For now, thankfully
little has changed in terms of tourist infrastructure. While at the time of research rubble from demolished build-
ings remained, and the main temple road resembled a bombed-out town, all hotels just back from the bazaar re-
mained intact and the owners were confident of continuing to do so. There was talk, however, that height restric-
tions may be enforced, which would see three-storey buildings having to be cut back to two floors. This would
mean a lot Hampi's appealing rooftop restaurants would disappear.
Sights
Set over 36 sq km, there are some 3700 monuments to explore here, and it would take
months if you were to do it justice. The ruins are divided into two main areas: the Sacred
Centre, around Hampi Bazaar; and the Royal Centre, towards Kamalapuram.
Be aware that the ?250 ticket for Vittala Temple entitles you to same-day admission in-
to most of the paid sites across the ruins, so don't lose your ticket.
