Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
SURFING SWAMIS
While there's always been a spiritual bond between surfer and Mother ocean, the Surfing Swamis (
9880659130; www.surfingindia.net ; 6-64 Kolachikambla, Mulki; s/d incl full board from ?2500/3000; ) at
Mulki, 30km north of Mangalore, take things to a whole new plane. At this working ashram, which was estab-
lished by its American guru who's been surfing since 1963 (and living in India for four decades), devotees follow
a daily ritual of puja, chanting, mediation and a pure vegetarian diet in between catching barrels.
The best waves are May to June and September to October. The Swamis can also assist with information on
surfing across India. Board hire is ?500 per day (it also has bodyboards and stand-up paddleboards) and lessons
are ?1500 per day.
Accommodation is pricey, but it has a homely beach-house feel, and rates include meals.
All are welcome to visit, but it's important to be aware it's strictly a place of worship and there are guidelines
to abide by, including no alcohol and refraining from sex during their stay. See the website for more details.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Dharmasthala
Inland from Mangalore are a string of Jain temple towns, such as Venur, Mudabidri and
Karkal. The most interesting among them is Dharmasthala, 75km east of Mangalore by
the Netravathi River. Some 10,000 pilgrims pass through this town every day. During hol-
idays and major festivals such as the five-day pilgrim festival of Lakshadeepotsava (Dhar-
masthala; Nov) , the footfall can go up tenfold.
The Manjunatha Temple ( 6.30am-2pm & 5-9pm) is Dharmasthala's main shrine, devoted to
the Hindu lord Shiva. Men have to enter with legs covered. Simple free meals are avail-
able in the temple's kitchen (
11.30am-2.15pm & 7.30-10pm) , attached to a hall that can seat up
to 3000.
Associated sights in town include the 12m-high statue of Bahubali at Ratnagiri Hill,
and the Manjusha Museum (admission ?5; 9am-1pm & 4.30-9pm) , which houses an electic collec-
tion of everything from artefacts to quirky collections of vintage cameras, telephones and
typewriters (better than it sounds!). Don't forget to visit the fantastic Car Museum (admission
?3; 8.30am-1pm & 2-7pm) , home to 48 vintage autos, including a 1903 Renault, a 1920s
Studebaker President used by Mahatma Gandhi and a 1951 Jaguar.
Should you wish to stay, contact the helpful temple office ( 08256-277121;
www.shridharmasthala.org ) for accommodation (per person ?50) in pilgrim lodges.
There are frequent buses to Dharmasthala from Mangalore (?55, 2½ hours).
 
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