Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
340). From Hassan's well-organised train station, three passenger trains head to Mysore
daily (2nd class ?120, three hours). For Bengaluru, take the 1.30am
Yeshvantpur Express
(sleeper ?140, 5½ hours). It's also possible to visit on day trip from Bengaluru with
KSTDC (
Click here
)
offering tours.
Belur
The
Channakeshava Temple
(Temple Rd; admission free; 7.30am-7.30pm)
was commissioned in 1116
to commemorate the Hoysalas' victory over the neighbouring Cholas. It took more than a
century to build, and is currently the only one among the three major Hoysala sites still in
daily use - try to be there for the ritual
puja
ceremonies at around 8.45am and 6.45pm.
Some parts of the temple, such as the exterior lower friezes, were not sculpted to comple-
tion and are thus less elaborate than those of the other Hoysala temples. However, the
work higher up is unsurpassed in detail and artistry, and is a glowing tribute to human
skill. Particularly intriguing are the angled bracket figures depicting women in ritual dan-
cing poses. While the front of the temple is reserved for images depicting erotic sections
from the Kama Sutra, the back is strictly for gods. The roof of the inner sanctum is held
up by rows of exquisitely sculpted pillars, no two of which are identical in design.
Scattered around the temple complex are other smaller temples, a marriage hall which
is still used, and the seven-storey
gopuram,
which has sensual sculptures explicitly por-
traying the activities of dancing girls.
Guides
can be hired for ?250; they help to bring some of the sculptural detail to life.
Hotel Mayura Velapuri
( 222209; Kempegowda Rd; d ?950, with AC ?1200; )
, a state-run hotel
gleaming with postrenovation glory, is located on the way to the temple, and is the best
place to camp in Belur. The restaurant-bar serves a variety of Indian dishes and snacks
(?70 to ?90) to go with beer. The cheaper
Sumukha Residency
(Temple Rd; d with fan/AC ?500/700)
is
another option.
There's an Axis ATM on the road leading to the temple.
There are buses to/from Hassan (?24, one hour), 38km away, every half-hour.
Halebid
Construction of the stunning
Hoysaleswara Temple
(admission free; dawn-dusk)
, Halebid's claim
to fame, began around 1121 and went on for more than 190 years. It was never completed,
