Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Kolhapur
0231 / POP 549,283 / ELEV 550M
A little-visited town, Kolhapur is the perfect place to get intimate with the flamboyant
side of India. Only a few hours from Goa, this historic town boasts an intensely fascinat-
ing temple complex. In August, Kolhapur is at its vibrant best, when Naag Panchami ( Jul/
Aug) , a snake-worshipping festival, is held in tandem with one at Pune. Gastronomes take
note: the town is also the birthplace of the famed, spicy Kolhapuri cuisine, especially
chicken and mutton dishes.
The old town around the Mahalaxmi Temple is 3km southwest of the bus and train sta-
tions, while the 'new' palace is a similar distance to the north. Rankala Lake, a popular
spot for evening strolls, is 5km southwest of the stations.
Sights
Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Museum
(Indian/foreigner ?18/30; 9.30am-5.30pm) 'Bizarre' takes on a whole new meaning at this 'new'
palace, an Indo-Saracenic behemoth designed by British architect 'Mad' Charles Mant for
the Kolhapur kings in 1884. The ground floor houses a madcap museum, featuring count-
less trophies from the eponymous king's trigger-happy jungle safaris, which were put to
some ingenious uses, including walking sticks made from leopard vertebrae, and ashtrays
fashioned out of tiger skulls and rhino feet. Then, there's an armoury, which houses
enough weapons to stage a mini coup. The horror-house effect is brought full circle by the
taxidermy section. However, don't forget to visit the ornate durbar hall, where the
erstwhile rulers held court sessions. Photography inside is strictly prohibited. A rickshaw
from the train station will cost ?30.
MUSEUM
Old Town
Kolhapur's atmospheric old town is built around the lively and colourful Mahalaxmi Temple (
5am-10.30pm) dedicated to Amba Bai, or the Mother Goddess. The temple's origins date
back to AD 10, and it's one of the most important Amba Bai temples in India. Non-Hin-
dus are welcome. Nearby, past a foyer in the Old Palace, is Bhavani Mandap (
AREA
6am-8pm) ,
dedicated to the goddess Bhavani.
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