Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Shivneri
Situated 90km northwest of Pune above the village of Junnar,
Shivneri Fort
(admission free;
dawn-dusk)
holds the distinction of being the birthplace of Shivaji. Within the ramparts of
this ruined fort are the old royal stables, a mosque dating back to the Mughal era and sev-
eral rock-cut reservoirs. The most important structure is Shivkunj, the pavilion in which
Shivaji was born.
About 4km from Shivneri, on the other side of Junnar, is an interesting group of Hinay-
ana Buddhist caves called
Lenyadri
(Indian/foreigner ?5/100; dawn-dusk)
. Of the 30-odd caves,
Cave 7 is the most impressive, and interestingly houses an image of the Hindu lord
Ganesh.
A bus (?80, two hours, 7.15am) goes to Junnar from Pune's Shivaji Nagar terminus. A
return bus leaves Junnar at 11.30am. A day cab from Pune will cost at least ?2500.
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Mahabaleshwar
02168 / POP 12,750 / ELEV 1372M
Up in the Western Ghats, Mahabaleshwar - founded in 1828 by British governor Sir John
'Boy' Malcolm - was, at one time, the summer capital of the Bombay presidency.
However, what was once a pretty hill station oozing old-world charm is today a jungle of
mindless urban construction. Swarms of raucous holiday-makers who throw the place into
a complete tizzy only make things worse. Mahabaleshwar's only face-saver is the delight-
ful views it offers, but they're not half as good in practice, given that you'll have to com-
bat the riotous tourists while appreciating them.
The hill station virtually shuts down during the monsoons (June to September), when
an unbelievable 6m of rain falls.
The action can be found in the main bazaar (Main Rd, also called Dr Sabane Rd) - a
200m strip of holiday tack. The bus stand is at the western end. You have to cough up a
?20 'tourist tax' on arrival.
