Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
KHOTACHIWADI
This storied
wadi
(hamlet) is a bastion clinging onto Mumbai life as it was before high-rises. A Christian enclave
of elegant two-storey wooden mansions, it's 500m northeast of Girgaum Chowpatty, lying amid Mumbai's pre-
dominantly Hindu and Muslim neighbourhoods. These winding lanes allow a wonderful glimpse into a quiet life
free of rickshaws and taxis. It's not large, but you can spend a little while wandering the alleyways and admiring
the old homes and, around Christmas, their decorations.
Sheth Marg (JSS Marg) and Rajarammohan Roy Marg (RR Rd/Charni Rd), then head directly opposite the
church on JSS Marg and duck down the second and third lanes on your left.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5
Western Suburbs
North Mumbai is home to the city's trendiest dining, centered on Bandra West and Juhu.
Look out for the Juhu branch of Mahesh Lunch Home (
Click here
)
, and the Bandra out-
posts of Suzette (
Click here
)
, Basilico (
Click here
)
and Theobroma (
Click here
)
.
Hotel Ram Ashraya
(Bhandarkar Rd, King's Circle, Matunga East; light meals ?30-50; 5am-9.30pm)
Tucked away in the Tamil
enclave of King's Circle, 80-year-old Ram Ashraya is beloved by southern families for its
spectacular dosas,
idli
(round steamed rice cakes),
upma
(semolina cooked with onions,
spices and coconut) and filter coffee. The menu, written on a chalkboard, changes daily.
To get here, take the Central Line from CST; it's just outside the Matunga station's east
exit.
SOUTH INDIAN
$
Dakshinayan
(Hotel Anand, Gandhigram Rd, Juhu; light meals ?75-110; 11am-3pm & 6-11pm, from 8am Sun)
With
rangoli
on the walls, servers in lungis and groups of women in saris lunching (
chappals
off under
the table), Dakshinayan channels Tamil Nadu. The delicately textured dosas,
idli
and
ut-
tapam
, fresh coconut chutney, sambar, tomato and onion chutneys all taste homemade.
Finish them off with a South Indian filter coffee - served in a stainless-steel set, so you
can pour it back and forth to cool just like your grandma in Madras used to do.
SOUTH INDIAN
$
Candies
CAFE
$$
