Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DHARAVI SLUM
Mumbaikars were ambivalent about the stereotypes in 2008's
Slumdog Millionaire
, but slums are very much a
part of - some would say the foundation of - Mumbai city life. An astonishing 60% of Mumbai's population lives
in slums, and one of the city's largest slums is Dharavi. Originally inhabited by fisher-folk when the area was still
creeks, swamps and islands, it became attractive to migrant workers from South Mumbai and beyond when the
swamp began to fill in due to natural and artificial causes. It now incorporates 1.75 sq km of land sandwiched
between Mumbai's two major railway lines, and is home to more than one million people.
While it may look a bit shambolic from the outside, the maze of dusty alleys and sewer-lined streets of this
city-within-a-city are actually a collection of abutting settlements. Some parts of Dharavi have mixed popula-
tions, but in other parts inhabitants from different parts of India, and with different trades, have set up homes and
tiny factories. Potters from Saurashtra live in one area, Muslim tanners in another; embroidery workers from Ut-
tar Pradesh work alongside metalsmiths; while other workers recycle plastics as women dry pappadams in the
searing sun. Some of these thriving industries, around 10,000 in all, export their wares, and the annual turnover of
business from Dharavi is thought to exceed US$650 million.
Up close, life in the slums is strikingly normal. Residents pay rent, most houses have kitchens and electricity,
and building materials range from flimsy corrugated- iron shacks to permanent multistorey concrete structures.
Many families have been here for many generations, and some of the younger Dharavi residents may work in
white-collar jobs. They often choose to stay, though, in the neighbourhood they grew up in.
Slum tourism is a polarising subject, so you'll have to decide your feelings for yourself. If you opt to visit,
Reality Tours & Travel (
Click here
) does a fascinating tour, and puts a percentage of profits back into Dharavi.
Some tourists opt to visit on their own, which is OK as well - just don't take photos. Take the train from
Churchgate station to Mahim (?6), exit on the west side and cross the bridge into Dharavi.
To learn more about Mumbai's slums, check out Katherine Boo's 2012 book
Behind the Beautiful Forevers
,
about life in Annawadi, a slum near the airport, and
Rediscovering Dharavi
, Kalpana Sharma's sensitive and en-
grossing history of Dharavi's people, culture and industry.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1
Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
Marine Drive & Girgaum Chowpatty
(Netaji Subhashchandra Bose Rd)
Built on land reclaimed from Back Bay in 1920, Marine Drive
arcs along the shore of the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point past Girgaum Chowpatty
(where it's known as Chowpatty Seaface) and continues to the foot of Malabar Hill. Lined
with flaking art deco apartments, it's one of Mumbai's most popular promenades and
sunset-watching spots. Its twinkling night-time lights earned it the nickname 'the Queen's
Necklace'.
Girgaum Chowpatty (often referred to as just 'Chowpatty') remains a favourite evening
spot for courting couples, families, political rallies and anyone out to enjoy what passes
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