Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OLD WALLED COURTYARDS
Sìhéyuàn are the building blocks of the hútòng world. Some old courtyards, such as the Lǎo
Shě Museum, have been quaintly mothballed as museums, but many remain inhabited and
hum with domestic activity inside and out. Doors to communal courtyards are typically left
open, while from spring to autumn men collect outside their gates, drinking beer, smoking
and chewing the fat. Inside, trees soar aloft, providing shade and a nesting place for birds.
Prestigious courtyards are entered by a number of gates, but the majority have just a
single door. Venerable courtyards are fronted by large, thick, red doors, outside of which
perch either a pair of Chinese lions or drum stones ( bǎogǔshí; two circular stones resem-
bling drums, each on a small plinth and occasionally topped by a miniature lion or a small
dragon head). A set of square méndāng (wooden ornaments) above the gateway is a com-
mon sight. You may even see a set of stepping-on stones (shàngmǎ shí) that the owner
would use for mounting his steed. The more historic courtyard gates are accessed by steps,
both topped with and flanked by ornate carvings - the generosity of detail indicates the so-
cial clout of the courtyard's original inhabitants.
Many of these impressive courtyards were the residences of Běijīng's officials, wealthy
families and even princes; Prince Gong's Residence on Dingfu Jie is perhaps the most cel-
ebrated example. In more recent times, many were appropriated by work units to provide
housing for their workforce. Others still belong to private owners, or are used by the gov-
ernment or universities, but the state ultimately owns all property in China, which leaves
the fate of the hútòng in the hands of local authorities.
Foreigners long ago cottoned on to the charm of courtyard life and breached this conser-
vative bastion, although many are repelled by poor heating, and neighbours who can be too
close for comfort by Western standards. In addition, some hútòng homes still lack toilets,
explaining the malodorous public loos strung along many alleyways. But other homes have
been thoroughly modernised and sport such features as varnished wooden floors, fully fit-
ted kitchens and air-conditioning. Converted courtyards are prized and are much more ex-
pensive to buy or rent than even the swishest apartments.
You can experience these delightful lanes to the full by spending a night in a hútòng courtyard
hotel. There are also now a number of fine courtyard restaurants, such as Dali Courtyard or
Source, which allow you to dine inside a sìhéyuàn .
 
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