Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SIGHTS
BĚIHǍI PARK
|PARK
HÒUHǍI LAKES
( Hòuhǎi; Shichahai, Nanluogu Xiang or Jishuitan)
Also known as Shíchàhǎi but mostly just referred
to collectively as 'Hòuhǎi', the Hòuhǎi lakes are compromised of three lakes: Qiánhǎi
(Front Lake), Hòuhǎi (Back Lake) and Xīhǎi (West Lake), two of which (Qiánhǎi and
Hòuhǎi) are linked. Together they are one of the capital's favourite outdoor spots, heaving
with locals and out-of-towners in the summer especially, and provide great people-spotting
action.
|LAKES
During the day, senior citizens meander along, use the exercise machines scattered along
the lakeshore, fish, fly kites or just sit and chew the fat. At night, the area turns into one of
the more popular nightlife areas, as the restaurants, bars and cafes that surround the lakes
spring into life. Many of the bars have a cookie-cutter quality though, the drinks are more
expensive than elsewhere, and the lakes become a mass of pedalos circling round and
round.
But it's easy enough to escape the crowds, by exploring the many
hútòng
that run both
east and west of the lakes, and Hòuhǎi remains a fine spot to kick back. It's particularly
good to cycle around and numerous places by the lakeshores hire out bikes by the hour
(¥10 per hour, ¥200 deposit). There are many spots to rent pedalos too (¥80 per hour, ¥300
deposit), if you want to take to the water (some locals swim in the lakes, but we wouldn't
advise that).
The lakes look majestic in the winter, when they freeze over and become the best place
in Běijīng to ice skate. Local vendors appear magically at this time of year, with all the gear
you'll need.
PRINCE GONG'S RESIDENCE
|HISTORIC COURTYARD HOME
( Gōngwáng Fǔ; 8328 8149; 14 Liuyin Jie; adult ¥40, tours incl opera performance & tea ceremony ¥70;
7.30am-4.30pm Mar-Oct, 8am-4pm Nov-Mar; Ping'anli)
Reputed to be the model for the mansion in
Cao Xueqin's 18th-century classic
Dream of the Red Mansions,
the residence is one of
Běijīng's largest private residential compounds. It remains one of the capital's more attract-
ive retreats, decorated with rockeries, plants, pools, pavilions and elaborately carved gate-
ways, although it can get very crowded with tour groups. Performances of Peking opera (
