Travel Reference
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What's the secret of your restaurant's success? It's because we cook the duck in the traditional way and
after 20 years we won't change that. Normally, we cook 50 ducks a day. On public holidays and at Chinese New
Year, we'll go through 100 ducks in a day.
Do you still cook the duck yourself? Not unless it's a very busy time. I sometimes cook at home, but not
roast duck because I see enough of that in the restaurant.
|CHINESE YÚNNÁN
LOST HEAVEN$$$
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( Huāmǎ Tiāntáng; 8516 2698; 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, dishes from ¥40; lunch & dinner; ; Qian-
men) The latest addition to the restaurants clustered in this former section of the Legation
Quarter is the Běijīng branch of this famed Shànghǎi restaurant. It specialises in the folk
cuisine of Yúnnán province and, if the spices have been toned down somewhat, then the
flavours remain subtle and light and are guaranteed to transport you to China's balmy
southwest. Try the Dai-style roast pork in banana leaf (¥68), or one of the many splendid
salads, such as the marinated beef salad and peppers or the Burmese tea leaves salad. All
the dishes on the extensive menu are enticing, and there's an elegant outside area and at-
tentive service. Book ahead.
LÌQÚN ROAST
DUCK RESTAURANT$$$
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|PEKING DUCK
( Lìqún Kǎoyādiàn; 6705 5578, 6702 5681; 11 Beixiangfeng Hutong, roast duck ¥220; lunch & dinner;
; Qianmen) Buried away in east Qiánmén, the approach to this compact courtyard restaur-
ant is through a maze of crumbling hútòng that have somehow survived total demolition;
look for the signs pointing the way. If that doesn't inspire confidence, reassure yourself
with the thought that the delectable duck on offer here is so in demand that it's essential to
call ahead to reserve both a bird and a table (otherwise, turn up off-peak and be prepared
to wait an hour). Inside, it's a little tatty (no prizes for the toilets) and chaotic, but walk by
the ovens with their rows of ducks on hooks, squeeze past the scurrying, harried waiters
and then sit back and enjoy some of the finest duck in town.
QIÁNMÉN QUÁNJÙDÉ ROAST
DUCK RESTAURANT$$$
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|PEKING DUCK
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