Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Tradition dictates that the tree is a gift from Allah, and is thus not to be propagated,
bought or sold, only harvested if it happens to be within your plot of land. Needless to say,
that hasn't stopped people from trying. In an attempt to protect their precious resources,
the Jibbali, descendants of the ancient people of Ad, honed the art of misinformation. Fly-
ing red serpents and toxic mists were just some of the mythical tribulations rumoured to
protect groves from evil eye and thieving hand. Gathering the aromatic gum was similarly
fraught with danger. The collectors were often slaves or those banished to the area as pun-
ishment. They fell sick from deadly infections indigenous to the area and life beyond the
monsoon catchment was a wickedly harsh affair.
The trade was centred on Sumhuram, which the Greeks called Moscha and which is
now known as Khor Rouri. Today the ruins of this once-great port are a short drive from
Salalah, the capital of Dhofar and the second-largest city in modern Oman. Looking out to
sea on a wet and windy day in July, when the grazing camels and flamingos shelter in the
upper reaches of the lagoon and leave the violent shore to the ghost crabs, it's little won-
