Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and shimmering hot plains to the north. The climb up from these plains to the village takes
you through some of the most jaw-dropping scenery in the country.
BOYS WITH TOYS
The abundance of weapons in private Yemeni hands is legendary, with estimates of 60 million weapons in the
hands of 24 million citizens. The most visible form of gun is the Kalashnikov, but you can also take your pick
from a wide assortment of pistols, rifles, hand grenades, large jeep-mounted weaponry, surface-to-air missiles and
even anti-aircraft guns. While the trade in such heavy weapons is a little more discreet, the sale of machine guns,
grenades and pistols has always been very open and obvious. Before the current unrest the government had made
some headway in cracking down on gun ownership and gun-markets; although only in areas where they had full
control. In the tribal areas the ownership and trade in guns remained virtually unchanged. What progress had been
made has almost certainly suffered a huge setback thanks to the recent turmoil and the government's near total
lack of control over large areas of the nation.
For the average Yemeni, with their strong tribal background, guns are an essential of daily life. Blood feuds
between tribal groups can continue for years and at times reach levels of almost all-out warfare. These ethnic ven-
dettas result in around 2000 deaths per year. With the never-ending instability in Yemen and the larger region, it's
no surprise that gun-running is big business here and Yemeni firepower has been found throughout eastern Africa
and the Middle East. The Yemeni/Saudi border has always been a fairly porous and loosely defined affair, and
with the tribes holding more power than the central government, in this region smuggling has long been a main-
stay of the economy. Though there is no way of knowing where many of these weapons end up, most observers
agree that Al-Qaeda groups both in Yemen and elsewhere do take advantage of this easy weapons supply.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sa'da
07 / POP 51,900
Ancient Sa'da was once a city of major importance on the trade routes north to Damascus,
as well as one of Arabia's original, and most devoted, Islamic cities. It remains to this day
the most conservative and traditional town in Yemen. Sa'da (and its region) is known for
its particular style of adobe architecture, which gives the houses the impression of having
a coat of mud tiles. The Great Mosque (Al-Hadi Mosque), which dates to the 9th century,
is considered one of the oldest in Yemen. The town also has some impressive fortifica-
tions, including a remarkable 16th-century adobe wall and its original gates.
