Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Approximately 250km south of Abu Dhabi, the Liwa Desert is a 150km arc of villages
and farms hugging the edge of Saudi Arabia's Empty Quarter (Rub'al-Khali), which truly
lives up to its name: only the odd roaming camel or small verdant oasis magnifies just
how spectacular this endless landscape of undulating sand dunes, shimmering in shades of
gold, apricot and cinnamon, really is.
This is the Arabia described by explorer Sir Wilfred Thesiger, but it's also the birth-
place of the Maktoum and Al Nahyan families, now the rulers of Dubai and Abu Dhabi
respectively. Once you visit, you'll understand why the Liwa has a special place in the
hearts of nationals who come here to get back to their roots, relax and just take in the arid
splendour of this glorious landscape.
The commercial heart of the oasis is Mezaira'a, with activity centred on the junction of
Hwy E43 from Madinat Zayed and Hwy E90, the main road through the Liwa. Here
you'll find a gas station, an ATM, a supermarket and a hospital.
Sights & Activities
The Liwa is best visited in your own vehicle, as the joy of travelling here is to be able to
drive through the villages and stop spontaneously to photograph a lone camel, a proud fort
or a spectacular 'desert rose' (flower-like crystallised gypsum).
Along the main road (Hwy E90), the most spectacular stretch is between Hameem and
Mezaira'a. The dunes here are like shifting mountain ranges of sand, with green farms
providing an occasional and unexpected patchwork effect.
The landscape west of Mezaira'a, towards Karima, is flatter and more open. An oddity
here is the
Khanur Fish Farm
, where you can buy fresh tilapia, carp and other fish and grill it
up at your campsite later on. The turn-off for Khanur is about 20km west of Mezaira'a.
Ask locally for directions to the farm.
For the most sublime views of sand dunes, though, veer off the main highway just past
central Mezaira'a and follow the signs to
Moreeb Hill
(or
Tal Mireb
- the signs will say
both). Soaring almost 300m high, this is one of the world's tallest dunes and the only real
'sight' in the Liwa as such. To get to the dune (whose name translates as 'scary moun-
tain'), turn left at the second roundabout, about 5km west of central Mezaira'a, and keep
right when you reach the Liwa Resthouse. Continue along this well-signposted, paved
road for about 20 minutes. The dune is where the road ends - you can't miss it!
Festivals & Events
