Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
You should carry your passport with you at all times. While travelling on business carry
a letter of introduction (and many copies) from your company.
Mutawwa
Formally known as the Committee for the Propagation of Virtue and the Prevention of
Vice, the
mutawwa
(religious police) have an infamous reputation as moral vigilantes out
to enforce strict Islamic orthodoxy.
Operating independently of other branches of the security services, the
mutawwa
are at
their most authoritative (and hence not to be argued with) when accompanied by uni-
formed police.
They became less visible (and less welcome) in cities like Jeddah and Al-Khobar fol-
lowing a horrific fire at a Mecca Girls School in 2002. The
mutawwa
pushed schoolgirls
back into the burning building because they weren't dressed 'correctly'. Fifteen people
died.
MINDING THE MUTAWWA
The
mutawwa
(religious police) are a source of both fear and fascination for many travellers, but if you dress and
behave appropriately, you have little to fear. Indeed, some
mutawwa
are known to give
hawajas
(Westerners) a
wide berth.
The
mutawwa
are conspicuous for their
thobes
(men's shirt-dress), which are worn above their ankles, and for
wearing
gutras
(white head cloths) without
agals
(head ropes), since God alone is entitled to wear 'crowns'.
The places you're most likely to encounter
mutawwa
are, in descending order: Al-Ula, Jizan, Abha, Hail, Al-
Hofuf, Riyadh, Taif and Najran.
Ramadan
For Muslims, public observance of the fast is mandatory. For non-Muslims, smoking, eat-
ing or drinking in public could result in arrest.
Road Safety
Saudi Arabia has one of the highest incidents of road fatalities in the world. Some of the
worst hazards are:
The coastal road that links Jeddah to Jizan (Road No 55), which has the highest fatality
rate in the Kingdom.
Camels wandering onto unfenced roads, particularly at night.
Buses and taxis suddenly veering across the road to pick up or drop off passengers.
Pick-up trucks suddenly pulling out at junctions or after petrol stations.
Vehicles driving outside of towns at night with one or no lights on.
Vehicles trying to overtake on corners. Saudi drivers expect you (and sometimes oncom-
ing traffic too) to pull over so that they can pass.
