Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ful adoption of the best parts of the Gulf philosophy, marked by a tolerance of outside
'customs and manners', without the sacrifice of national identity that often characterises
rapid modernisation. Oman takes pride in its long history, consciously maintaining cus-
toms, dress, architecture and rules of hospitality, as well as meticulously restoring histor-
ical monuments. With relatively modest oil revenues, Omani people have had to work
hard to make their country what it is today, and perhaps that is why the arrogance that
may be seen in neighbouring countries is conspicuously absent here. It is refreshing to
find Omani nationals in all walks of life, from taxi drviers to university professors.
Lifestyle
It would be hard to imagine any country that has changed so dramatically in such a short
space of time. Within the living memory of most middle-aged people outside Muscat,
travelling to the next village meant hopping on a donkey or bicycle, education meant re-
citing the Quran under a tree, and medication comprised of a few herbs (very effective
ones) from the mountainsides. Modern farmers contemplate genetically modified crop ro-
tations, yet also look at the cloudless sky and realise that their grandmothers and children
haven't been praying loudly enough. Little wonder that some families have buckled under
the pressure of such an extraordinary pace of change; alcoholism, divorce, drug abuse and
manic driving are all social ills that have increased proportionately.
On the whole, however, Oman is a success story; it has embraced the new world with
just enough scepticism to allow people to return to their villages on the weekend, park
their Toyotas at the end of the tarmac and walk the rest of the way to see grandfather.
It's possible to recognise people's ethnic origins, even the regions from which they hail,
by observing women's clothing. Heads, arms and legs are always covered, but outfits
range from a patterned cotton cloth to a transparent abeyya (woman's full-length black
robe), worn with a peaked face mask. In the capital, the silk abeyya, often worn over
Western clothing, has become a fashion item. During festivals, sisters and even friends of-
ten wear clothes cut from the same cloth with elaborately embroidered trouser cuffs. Men
wear a dishdasha (shirt-dress, usually white) and a white hat, traditionally embroidered by
a loved one. On official occasions, they wear a turban (made of pashmina and usually im-
ported from Kashmir) and tuck a silver khanjar (ceremonial dagger) into their belt. For an
especially formal occasion, they may wear a silk outer garment with gold trim and carry a
short, simple camel stick.
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