Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DHOFAR, SALALAH &
SOUTHERN OMAN
The southernmost province of Oman is a world away from the industrious north and is sep-
arated geographically by an interminable gravel desert. With its historic frankincense trade,
great beaches, a laid-back atmosphere and an interesting ethnic mix, it's a fascinating place
to visit, particularly during or just after the
khareef
(mid-June to late August season of
mists and light rains).
There are many intriguing sites to visit as day trips from Salalah, including Job's Tomb;
the heroic town of Mirbat with its beautiful beaches; and Mughsail, famed for the violent
blowholes in the undercliff and for nearby groves of wild frankincense.
If you are travelling during the
khareef
and can put up with the unremittingly tedious
journey from Muscat or Nizwa, it is worth going overland to Salalah across the largely fea-
tureless Al-Wusta Region and returning by plane. This is the best way to sense the full
spectacle of the
khareef
across the top of the jebel
;
after eight hours of gravel plains, Dho-
far seems like a little miracle.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Salalah
23 / POP 172,000
Salalah, the capital of the Dhofar region, is a colourful, subtropical city that owes much of
its character to Oman's former territories in East Africa. Flying into Salalah from Muscat,
especially during the
khareef
, it is hard to imagine that Oman's first and second cities
share the same continent. From mid-June to mid-August, monsoon clouds from India bring
a constant drizzle to the area and, as a result, the stubble of Salalah's surrounding jebel is
transformed into an oasis of misty pastures. Year-round, Salalah's coconut-fringed beaches
and plantations of bananas and papayas offer a flavour of Zanzibar in the heart of the Ara-
bian desert.
The giant Salalah Port at Raysut has brought new wealth to the city, not to mention thou-
sands of day-visit cruise-ship passengers. As a result, the city has undergone a beautifica-
tion process and lots of helpful brown signs help steer visitors around Salalah and sur-
rounding sights of special interest.
