Oman - Oman, UAE and Arabian Peninsula - page 346

All the main wadis in the area - Wadi Mistal, Wadi Bani Kharus, Wadi Bani Awf and Wadi Sahten - have their
share of geological masterpieces and can be easily accessed with a 4WD, a map and an off-road guidebook. Take
along Samir Hanna's Field Guide to the Geology of Oman, too, to help identify some key features. Note that there
are currently major roadworks in each of the wadis - the good news is that this means they will soon by access-
ible without 4WD.
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Rustaq
26 / POP 79,700
Some 175km southwest of Muscat, Rustaq is best known today for its imposing fort (admis-
sion 500 baisa; 9am-4pm Sat-Thu) , though it enjoyed a spell as Oman's capital in the 17th cen-
tury. The fort was closed for restoration at the time of writing. There is an old souq opposite
the fort used for livestock and a smart new souq on the main street, about 1.5km from the
highway. If you've time to spare, you could visit Ayn Al-Khasfar. To reach these hot springs
, turn right at the traffic lights on the way into town and you will find them beside the
mosque at the end of the road.
The only place to stay in the area is the simple but friendly Shimook Guesthouse ( 26
877071; [e-mail]; r OR25, with breakfast OR30) , at the start of the road from Rustaq to
Ibri, opposite Mecca Hypermarket. The rooms are basic to say the least and the bathroom
taps drip irrepressibly, but the waft of extravagant incense makes up for these shortcom-
ings. You can ask for dinner (freshly cooked and tasty) in the front yard or go for kebabs
at one of the small restaurants on the corner (a two-minute walk towards the great Sultan
Qaboos Mosque).
Microbuses can be found a few hundred metres from the fort on the main road to
Nakhal (OR1) or the Barka roundabout (OR2). For Muscat, you must change taxis in
Barka.
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Wadi Hoqain
This fertile wadi, accessible only by 4WD, offers one of the easiest off-road experiences
of the region and an intimate view of life under the date palms. A reasonable graded road
meanders through wadi-side plantations and villages , bustling with activity in the late after-
noon. Add copper-coloured cliffs and a stunning castle to the rural mix, and it's a wonder
that this wadi has remained a secret for so long.