Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Preparations range from Indian and Chinese to fish and chips with plenty of non-fish and
vegetarian options.
Getting There & Away
ONTC buses from Muscat (OR2.600, three hours, departs 6am, 6.30am, 1pm, 3pm, 4pm)
drop passengers off at the small hospital near the centre of town and then continue to
Buraimi or Dubai.
Microbuses and taxis come and go from a car park across the street from the hospital.
Micro-buses charge OR3.500 for the trip to Rusayl roundabout in Muscat and OR4.500 to
Ruwi. Shared taxis charge OR8 to Rusayl roundabout and OR10 to Ruwi (OR50 en-
gaged).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Nakhal
26 / POP 18,000
Nakhal is a picturesque town dominated by the Hajar Mountains and one of Oman's most
dramatic forts. Built on the foundations of a pre-Islamic structure, the towers and en-
tranceway of this
fort
(admission 500 baisa; 9am-4pm Sat-Thu)
were constructed during the reign
of Imam Said bin Sultan in 1834. There are excellent views of the Batinah plain from the
ramparts, and the
majlis
(seating area) on the top 'storey' of the fort makes a cool place to
enjoy the tranquillity. The windows are perfectly aligned to catch the breeze, even in sum-
mer.
There are many features to look for: gaps where boiling cauldrons of honey would have
been hinged over doorways; spiked doors to repel battering; round towers to deflect can-
non balls;
falaj
in case of a siege. The entire structure is built around a rock; this is a com-
mon feature of Omani forts, which saves the problem of having to construct sound found-
ations.
Continue past Nakhal Fort through date plantations for 2.5km to find the
Ath-Thowra hot
spring
. The spring emerges from the wadi walls and is channelled into a
falaj
for the irriga-
tion of the surrounding plantations. There are usually children and goats splashing in the
overspill. Look out for the flash of turquoise-winged Indian rollers, among other birds, at-
tracted to the oasis. Picnic tables with shelters make it a popular place on Thursday and
Friday.
Microbuses and taxis are the only viable transport to Nakhal and leave from the junc-
tion with the main road and in the area below the fort. Microbuses charge OR1 for the trip
