Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
recently, there was nothing between the nervous driver and a plunge into the abyss, but
now an iron railing at least indicates the most precipitous points along the track and a
couple of rough car parks along the rim pick out some of the best viewpoints into the
canyon.
While there is nothing 'to do' exactly at the top, the area makes a wonderful place to
take photographs, have a picnic (there are no shops or facilities so bring your own), enjoy
a hike…or buy a carpet.
You need only step from your vehicle and you'll find
carpet sellers
appear from nowhere
across the barren landscape clutching piles of striped red-and-black goat-hair rugs. Weav-
ing is a profitable local industry, but don't expect a bargain. A large rug can cost anything
from OR30 to OR80, depending on the colours used and the complexity of the pattern.
Weaving is men's work on Jebel Shams: spinning the wool is women's work. If you can't
find room for a carpet, a spindle made from juniper wood makes a more portable souvenir.
Jebel Shams is a feasible day trip from Nizwa (or a long day trip from Muscat), but to
savour its eerie beauty, consider staying overnight on the plateau near the canyon rim at
one of the low-key accommodations.
Sleeping & Eating
Jabal Shems Heights
Guest House$
MOUNTAIN CAMP
( 92 721999;
www.jabalshems.com
; half board in tent or cabin OR40; )
Situated at the start of the
walking route to the summit of Jebel Shams (route W4, seven to 12 hours), this camp of-
fers rooms that are little more than a concrete shell with air-con and lino floors. There's
hot water in the attached shower cubicle, however, and a small restaurant on site. Be
warned, it is freezing in winter.
Sunrise Camp$$
MOUNTAIN CAMP
( 97 100791;
www.sunriseresort-om.com
; half-board in Arabic tent OR50, chalet OR60 ; )
In a dramatic
location overlooking a mountain precipice, 50-minutes' drive from Al-Hamra, this remote
camp makes for a peaceful retreat. Beds are offered in Arabic-style tents or concrete
chalets (all with private bathrooms). Guests retreat inside the dining room during bitter
winter nights. Pitch your own tent for OR10 including supper and breakfast. A three-hour
marked trail offers fine views of Rustaq, thousands of kilometres below.
To reach the camp, follow the directions to Jebel Shams but turn left at the camp's sign-
board a few kilometres after the end of the sealed road, before you reach the Jebel Shams
