Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The route, which can only be negotiated by 4WD, begins at a right turn for Souqah, just
before the town of Ash-Shariq (also known as Simayiah - located at the entrance of Wadi
Khabbah). The start of the track moves each time it rains: look for a track on the other
side of the wadi or ask locally. Make sure you have water, a map, compass and a full tank
of petrol. At 3.1km after you leave the sealed road, take the right fork for Jaylah (some-
times spelt Gaylah or Al-Gailah). The track traces a precarious route through walls of un-
hinged black shale, waiting for a good storm to collapse. The last 6km of the ascent to the
plateau, past shepherd enclosures, is currently poorly graded and progress is slow. At
21.4km, turn steep left by the water filling 'station' and follow the road to the top of the
plateau.
Myriad car tracks thread from village to village on the top of the plateau and numerous
little communities survive on very little on the more or less barren plain. Until recently,
the only access to many of these villages was by foot with an occasional helicopter visit
bringing supplies and/or health officials.
The 90 or so tombs scattered across the hilltops date back to the Umm an Nar culture of
2000 to 2700 BC and, if you've been to Bat, you'll recognise the meticulous stone towers,
carefully tracing the ridges of the high ground. Local belief has it that they were built by
the spirit Kebir Keb, which is as good a way as any of describing the collective conscious-
ness of the ancients.
If you are feeling adventurous, you can continue over the unmapped plateau to the vil-
lage of Qaran and drop down to the Muscat-Sur coastal highway, 5km northwest of Wadi
Shab. This road is not for the faint-hearted, though, with near vertical descents.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Wadi Khabbah & Wadi Tayein
These two wide and luscious wadis meander along the western base of the Eastern Hajar
Mountains and provide a fascinating alternative route between Muscat and Sur. A 4WD is
needed to navigate the off-road sections, which invariably involve fording water. The pic-
ture of rural wadi life that unfolds as you meander through the spectacular mountain
scenery is a highlight. There are numerous plantations and small villages in these wadis
and it's much appreciated if you travel through the wadis with sensitivity.
Near the point where Wadi Kabbah runs into Wadi Tayein is the village of Tool. Tool is
also the gateway to Wadi Dayqah; you can park outside the village and wade across the
wadi entrance. Deep pools invite a swim but don't for a minute think that you're alone -
the steep ravine is a favourite with silent-walking shepherds. Tool lies 10km east of the
town of Mehlah, at the end of the sealed road through Wadi Tayein.
