Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ised sand) blown into extraordinary formations, and the tracks of the Bedu, which ignore
the road and continue across it as if it were a minor interruption to age-old caravan routes.
Fill up with petrol and supplies in Al-Ashkarah as the road takes about two hours to
drive (excluding photo stops).
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Jalan Bani Bu Hassan & Jalan Bani Bu Ali
25 / POP 30,000
These towns comprise a conglomeration of watchtowers, old fortified houses, forts and
ancient plantation walls, all of which lie crumbling in various states of beloved derelic-
tion. There has been little attempt to court the modern world and none at all to woo the
visitor, making a visit to these sites all the more rewarding.
It's worth trying to stumble on
Jami al-Hamoda Mosque
in the middle of Jalan Bani Bu Ali,
with its unique structure of 52 domes and a
falaj
used for ablutions running through the
courtyard. To get to the mosque, follow the signs for Jalan Bani Bu Ali at the roundabout
off the Al-Kamil to Al-Ashkarah road. Drive along the main street towards the fort
(closed to the public but obvious above the palm trees), and pass into a housing area. Turn
left immediately after the fort just before reaching a brown sign that wistfully states 'you
are on the fringe of the sands' and warning you not to go further without 4WD (tracks
lead from here into the Sharqiya Sands but should not be attempted without a guide as
these routes are seldom explored by visitors). Follow the tarmac road for half a kilometre
and the mosque appears on the left. Look out for elaborately painted metal doors on the
surrounding houses - a feature of the region.
If the quiet authenticity of the two towns or their gateway location on the edge of the
Sharqiya Sands appeal, then consider staying at
Al-Dabi Jalan Bani Bu Ali Tourist Motel
( 25
553307; d/tr OR20/25; )
. With fancy tiling, arched corridors and carved doors, the hotel has
pretensions above its ability to deliver (as you can see from the drab chocolate-brown foy-
er with frayed chairs) but it does at least offer a clean bed for the night. There's a small
restaurant next door for tasty
biryani
(OR2.500).
The twin towns are 17km from Al-Kamil and 36km to Al-Ashkarah and make a good
diversion en route to/from Ras al-Jinz.
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Al-Kamil
