Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
that your journey to Qalhat was a tad more adventurous than theirs. In their day, Qalhat
was a 'very good port, much frequented by merchant ships from India' and a hub for the
trade in horses from the interior. Today only the tomb, water cistern and remnants of city
walls are visible, and in place of barques and dhows, all that the sea brings to the shore are
sharks, sardines and rays. If you camp nearby, the water is often spangled at night with
green phosphorous.
The site was closed for maintenance at the time of writing and is unlikely to open soon.
Until the site is redeveloped for tourism, you can spot the tomb from the highway.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ras al-Jinz
Ras al-Jinz (Ras al-Junayz), the easternmost point of the Arabian Peninsula, is an import-
ant
turtle-nesting site
for the endangered green turtle. Over 20,000 females return annually to
the beach where they hatched in order to lay eggs.
Oman has an important role to play in the conservation of this endangered species and
takes the responsibility seriously, with strict penalties for harming turtles or their eggs.
The area is under government protection and the only way to visit the site is by joining an
escorted tour. For further information about conservation measures in place to protect
While the tour is intended for the well-being of the turtle, at peak holiday times large
volumes of people flock to the reserve. Thankfully groups are limited to 20 people per
guide with no more than five guides in each session. Despite the reserve's best efforts,
there is something immensely intrusive about large, noisy groups gawping at such an in-
timate act, especially when flippers are lifted out of the way for better viewing and the
frightened turtles are chased down the beach by mobile-phone wielding individuals. As
such, the experience may not be to everyone's taste.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SPOTTING TURTLES - BEST TIME TO GO
Turtle-watching aficionados time their visit to Ras al-Jinz to witness maximum traffic on the beach. This is what
they recommend:
Go in July
This is the peak laying season for the green turtle when more than 100 females come ashore each
night.
Go between September and November
Although at least one turtle arrives on the beach every night of the year,
this is the best time to witness both laying and hatching at Ras al-Jinz.
