Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Just 48km from Sur, Tiwi and the two flanking wadis make an easy day trip from Sur;
the Muscat-Sur Hwy passes the very doorstep of the town. You might be able to persuade
a taxi driver from Sur to take you to Tiwi (OR15) and wait for an hour or so while you ex-
plore either Wadi Shab or Wadi Tiwi. Alternatively, hotels in Sur can arrange a tour.
There is plenty of ad-hoc camping along nearby beaches. The most popular is Tiwi
Beach (White Beach), a large sandy bay 9km northwest of Tiwi towards Dibab, accessed
via the old coast road.
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Wadi Tiwi
With its string of emerald pools and thick plantations, Wadi Tiwi almost rivals Wadi Shab
in beauty, especially in the spring when the allotments turn a vivid green. Known as the
'Wadi of Nine Villages', there are excellent walking opportunities through the small vil-
lages that line the road. For the more ambitious hiker, there is a strenuous but rewarding
two-day hike that begins at Sooee, the last of the nine settlements. Indeed, the route over
the mountain to Wadi Bani Khalid has become a popular camping excursion with walking
groups.
Wadi Tiwi can be accessed by car but villagers prefer visitors to approach on foot. The
road is narrow and steep in parts towards the upper reaches and it is easy to get a large
vehicle stuck between the plantation walls.
To reach the wadi by car, turn towards the mountains at a small junction with a brown
signpost for Tracking Path E35 at the Sur end of Tiwi village. Donkeys and herons share
the knee-deep grass at the mouth of the wadi. Unfortunately, you will also spot the giant
highway pylons that now stride across the once picturesque wadi entrance. The road is
paved for part of the way. At the point where it meanders into the date plantations it is
best to park and walk. There is no public transport but tours can be arranged from hotels
in Sur.
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Qalhat
The 2nd-century settlement of Qalhat is one of the most ancient sites in Oman. There's
not much left to see except the ruined
Tomb of Bibi Miriam
but if you pay the site a visit,
you'll be in excellent company: both Marco Polo in the 13th century and Ibn Battuta in
the 14th century stopped here on their travels. You'll also have the satisfaction of knowing
