Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Look out for a brown sign to 'Qaran' or 'Kbaikab Graveyard and Al Jayla Village' off
the Muscat-Sur Hwy, 5km northwest of Wadi Shab. Beware, there are no facilities what-
soever on top of this desolate plateau and the nearest petrol station is in Sur (or along Hwy
23 on the Ibra side of the mountains). Watch for grazing gazelle along the route.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Wadi Shab
Aptly named in Arabic the 'Gorge Between Cliffs', Wadi Shab is still one of the most
lovely destinations in Oman - despite the ugly Muscat-Sur Hwy slung across the en-
trance. The wadi rewards even the most reluctant walker, with turquoise pools, waterfalls
and terraced plantations; kingfishers add glorious splashes of colour and all year round
trusses of pink oleander bloom by the water's edge.
While swimming in the lower pools is forbidden (they are a source of drinking water),
there is an opportunity for discreet swimming in the upper reaches of the wadi where you
can duck into a partially submerged cave.
To begin the walk, take the boat (200 baisa each way) across the deep water at the en-
trance of the wadi, organised by enterprising locals, and follow the path through planta-
tions, crossing and recrossing the wadi several times before reaching a small pumping sta-
tion. Be prepared to wade up to your knees in places and beware of slipping on algae-
covered rocks. After heavy rains, bring a bag for your camera and some dry clothes just in
case you are obliged to swim.
The path has been concreted (not very sympathetically) for part of the way and passes
close to several villages that are hidden away in the plantations. At times the path follows
an impressive
falaj
(traditional irrigation system) complete with underground sections and
laced with ferns. The wadi eventually broadens into an area of large boulders and wild fig
trees with many pools of deep water. Look for a ladder descending into one of these pools
as Wadi Shab bends to the left. If you duck through a short underwater channel in this
pool, you will find the partially submerged cavern. Allow up to two hours of walking to
reach this pool.
It's possible to walk beyond the pools to other small villages clustered along the wadi
floor but the paths are not so well-trodden and they follow, sometimes steeply, goat tracks
over the wadi cliffs. Walking shoes and plenty of drinking water are necessary. The wadi
becomes drier the higher you climb into the mountains.
