Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
civilization, it was a time when a common culture arose around the deity of a feline (either a jaguar or puma),
though condors, eagles and snakes are also represented.
These figures are highly stylized and cover a number of extraordinary objects, including the Tello Obelisk at the
Museo Nacional de Chavín (
Click here
), the Lanzón, which stands in mystical glory in the tunnels underneath the
Chavín site, and the Raimondi Stela at the Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historia del Perú in
Lima (
Click here
).
The latter has carvings of a human figure, sometimes called the Staff God, with a jaguar face and large staffs in
each hand - an image that is believed to indicate a belief in a tripartite universe consisting of heavens, earth and un-
derworld. It has shown up at archaeological sites along the coasts of Peru, suggesting a large area of influence.
MUSEO NACIONAL DE CHAVÍN
(admission free; 9am-5pm, closed Mon)
Funded jointly by the Peruvian and Japanese gov-
ernments, this excellent new museum adjacent to the archaeological site houses most of
the intricate
tenons,
as well as the magnificent Tello Obelisk, a stone object with relief
carvings of a caiman and other fierce animals.
| Museum
QUERCOS THERMAL BATHS
(admission S3)
If your muscles need a break, take a soak in one of the four private baths or
the larger pool. It's a 30-minute walk south of town.
| Hot Springs
Sleeping & Eating
Restaurants tend to close after sunset, so dig in early.
HOSTAL CHAVÍN TURÍSTICO $$
( 45-4051; soniavalenciapozo@hotmail.com; Maytacapac 120; s/d S40/80; )
This family-run op-
tion has well-appointed, clean-as-a-whistle rooms and large bathrooms. Although it
doesn't offer internet per se, the owners do have a 3G modem that you can use with your
either your own laptop or theirs.
| Guesthouse
BUONGIORNO $$
(Calle 17 de Enero Sur s/n; mains S17-38; 7am-7pm)
You'll find sophisticated dishes in a
garden setting, including a
lomo a la pimienta
(pepper steak) that is three-star Lima qual-
ity. Atmosphere takes a dive at dinner - go at lunch.
| Peruvian
CAFETERÍA RENATO $
| Cafe
