Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
may find hollow or roughened stems, stunted growth, and
yellow tips on the leaves.
Copper: Copper is important for root metabolism,
photosynthesis and enzyme activation. It is only needed in
small amounts, and excess amounts can kill plants, so don't
exceed the recommended amount. If you use copper-based
fungicides, you don't need to add it as a micro-nutrient
because you already have at least enough and probably too
much in your soil. I recommend adding copper in the form of
copper sulfate crystals. These are bright blue and
unmistakable. Use four tablespoons per 100 square feet of
garden annually. Suspect copper deficiency if newer leaves
are wilted and older leaves have a pronounced tendency to
curl inward on themselves.
Iron: Iron is crucial for the chlorophyll cycle in plants.
Without it, they will take on a bleached-out appearance and
their growth will be stunted. Plants self-regulate their iron
uptake, so a slightly excess amount won't hurt anything. If,
like me, you use blood meal in your garden, iron deficiency
isn't an issue. But if you don't use blood meal, you can add
iron in the form of iron (ferrous) sulfate. I recommend six
ounces per 100 square feet of garden.
Magnesium: Magnesium's primary benefit is that it helps
your soil bacteria, but it also plays a role in carbohydrate
motility within the plants. Magnesium coexists naturally in
dolomitic lime. If you substitute a portion of dolomitic lime
with regular lime in your garden, you don't need to
supplement magnesium. If you don't use dolomitic lime, you
can get magnesium sulfate (a.k.a. Epsom salt) at the grocery
store and add it to your garden at the rate of between twelve
