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ler but no less comfortable and the turrets, towers, octagonal rooms and superb views over
the vast grounds make it feel like an incredibly special place to stay. A three-course set
menu (from £30) is served in the evening.
The castle is 6 miles south of Machynlleth off the A487.
Sunny View
( 01654-700387; www.sunnyviewbandb.weebly.com ; Forge; s/d £45/70) Set in a quiet village 1 mile
from Machynlleth, this bungalow has immaculate rooms decorated in unfussy modern
style. The bathrooms are new, breakfasts are good and there's a very warm welcome. It's a
great option for cyclists as all three of the Mach cycle trails pass through the village.
To get here head out of Machynlleth on the A489 towards Newtown and turn right onto
the Forge Rd just opposite the hospital. If you arrive by train the owners are happy to pick
you up at the station.
B&B ££
Ynyshir Hall
( 01654-781209; www.ynyshirhall.co.uk ; Eglwysfach; s/d from £150/205; ) Tucked away to the south
of the River Dovey (Afon Dyfi) estuary, just off the main Aberystwyth-Machynlleth road
(A487), this grand manor house was once kept as a hunting lodge by Queen Victoria. It's
now a quietly opulent boutique hotel and its restaurant (two-/three-course lunch £25/
29.50, set dinner £72.50) is one of Wales' finest. The house's Victorian purpose is reflec-
ted in a menu that includes game birds such as quail, partridge and pheasant, as well as
local seafood and the finest Welsh lamb, beef and pork. The friendly (rather than fawning)
staff are never less than professional.
A little ironically, given the fowl-bothering menu, immediately behind the house is the
550-hectare Ynys-hir Royal Society for the Protection of Birds Reserve , complete with hides and a
small visitor centre.
HOTEL £££
Eating
The town's Wednesday farmers market (Maengwyn St) has been going on for over seven centur-
ies and remains a lively affair.
Green Goat Cafe
(mains £4-5; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) A roadside cafe with a difference, this bright green
caravan in a layby is not your average greasy spoon but a bastion of home-smoked meats,
CAFE £
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