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outdoor seating overlooking the waterfront. Inside there are whitewashed or exposed
stone walls, painted concrete and a friendly, lively vibe. The menu features a good selec-
tion of interesting dishes with local seafood commanding a prime position. It's renowned
for its incredible honey ice cream - don't leave without trying it!
Getting There & Away
Bus X50 goes regularly to Aberystwyth (45 minutes) and Cardigan (55 minutes); bus 552
runs to Cardigan (two hours) once daily on Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday.
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Aberystwyth
POP 13,000
Sweeping around the curving shore of Cardigan Bay, the lively university town of
Aberystwyth (aber- ist -with) has a stunning location but a bit of an identity crisis. Student
bars and cheap restaurants line the streets, the flashing lights of traditional amusements
twinkle from the pier and tucked away in the side streets are a handful of chichi boutiques
and organic, wholefood cafes. During term time the bars are buzzing and students play
football on the promenade, while in summer the bucket-and-spade brigade invade and en-
joy the beach. Meanwhile the trappings of this once-stately seaside resort remain in the
terrace of grand Georgian houses painted in subtle pastel hues that line the promenade.
The town's now mainly ruined castle was erected in 1277; like many other castles in
Wales it was captured by Owain Glyndŵr at the start of the 15th century and wrecked by
Oliver Cromwell's forces during the Civil War. By the beginning of the 19th century, the
town's walls and gates had completely disappeared.
Aberystwyth developed a fishing industry, and silver and lead mining were also import-
ant here. With the arrival of the railway in 1864, the town reinvented itself as a fashion-
able seaside destination. In 1872 Aberystwyth was chosen as the site of the first college of
the University of Wales (Aberystwyth University now has over 7000 students) and in
1907 it became home to the National Library of Wales.
Welsh is widely spoken here and locals are proud of their heritage. Catching a show at
the Arts Centre, hearing the male voice choir perform or simply soaking up the sunset
over Cardigan Bay are quintessential local experiences.
 
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