Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cwm Gwaun
Running inland to the southeast of Fishguard is
Cwm Gwaun
(
cum
-gwine), the valley of the
River Gwaun. This narrow, wooded cleft, best explored on foot or bicycle, feels strangely
remote and mysterious. Numerous ancient sites, cairns, stone circles and standing stones
litter the valley and, famously, the inhabitants retain a soft spot for the Julian calendar
(abandoned by the rest of Britain in 1752), which means that they celebrate New Year on
13 January. Local children walk from house to house singing traditional Welsh songs on
this day and are rewarded with sweets and money.
In tiny Pontfaen meander up the laneway that crosses the river and goes up the hill to
St
Brynach's Church
, a wonderfully restored chapel which originally dates back to 540AD.
Ruined and then rescued in the late 19th century, it has two 9th-century stone crosses in
the graveyard.
Drinking
PUB
Dyffryn Arms
( 01348-881305; Pontfaen; 11am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun)
It would be a shame to pass
through Pontfaen without stopping for a pint at the Dyffryn Arms, better known as
Bessie's, a rare old-fashioned pub in the front room of the octogenarian landlady's house.
Beer is served from jugs filled straight from the barrel; no hand pumps here!
Getting There & Away
There is no public transport along this route.
The back roads around the Preseli Hills and Cwm Gwaun offer some of the best on-road
cycling in southwest Wales. You can rent a bike from Newport Bike Hire (
Click here
) in
Newport .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Dinas Island
The great wedge-shaped profile of Dinas Island juts out from the coast between Fishguard
and Newport. It's not really an island as it's attached to the mainland by a neck of land,
framed on either side by picturesque coves - the sandy strand of
Pwllgwaelod
to the west,
