Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The atmosphere inside is one of great antiquity. As you enter the
nave
, the oldest surviv-
ing part of the cathedral, the first things you notice are the sloping floor and the outward
lean of the massive, purplish-grey pillars linked by semicircular Norman Romanesque
arches, a result of subsidence. Above is a richly carved 16th-century oak ceiling, adorned
with pendants and bosses.
At the far end of the nave is a delicately carved 14th-century Gothic
pulpitum
(the screen
wall between nave and choir), which bears a statue of St David dressed as a medieval
bishop, and contains the tomb of Bishop Henry de Gower (died 1347), for whom the Bish-
op's Palace was built.
Beyond the pulpitum is the magnificent
choir
; check out the mischievous carved figures
on the 16th-century misericords (under the seats), one of which depicts pilgrims being
seasick over the side of a boat. Don't forget to look up at the colourfully painted lantern
tower above (those steel tie rods around the walls were installed in the 19th century to
hold the structure together).
In a recess in the
Holy Trinity Chapel
at the east end of the cathedral is the object of all
those religious pilgrimages: a simple oak casket that contains the bones of St David and St
Justinian. The chapel ceiling is distinguished by superb fan vaulting dating from the early
16th century.
Accessed from the north wall of the nave, the
Treasury
displays vestments and religious
paraphernalia crafted from precious metals and stones. Just as valuable are the treasures in
the neighbouring
Library
, the oldest of which dates to 1505.
Lord Rhys ap Gruffydd, the greatest of the princes of South Wales, and his son Rhys
Gryg are known to be buried in the cathedral, although their effigies in the south choir
aisle date only from the 14th century. Gerald of Wales, an early rector of the cathedral, has
a gravestone here, but scholars suggest he is actually buried at Lincolnshire Cathedral.
In August there are hour-long
guided tours
at 11.30am Monday and 2.30pm Friday; at
other times, tours can be arranged in advance.
Bishop's Palace
(
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk
;
adult/child £3.20/2.80; 9.30am-5pm)
Across the river from the cathedral,
this atmospheric ruined palace, run by Cadw (the Welsh historic monuments agency), was
begun at the same time as the cathedral, but its final, imposing form owes most to Henry
de Gower, bishop from 1327 to 1347.
RUIN