Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
lounge, and a garden with beautiful views across the valley. The bedrooms are chintzy and
appealingly old-fashioned; one has a four-poster.
SOUTHEAST WALES IN...
One Day
Spend the first part of the day exploring the lower Wye Valley, starting at the impressive castle at Chepstow. Head
upstream to the ghostly remains of Tintern Abbey and then continue through the wooded gorge, crossing in and
out of England, until you reach Monmouth. Follow the River Monnow to either Skenfrith or Grosmont: they're
both wonderfully isolated hamlets, each with an ancient church, castle, good place to sleep and, of course, a vil-
lage pub.
Two Days
Continuing on roads less travelled, take the A465 to Llanfihangel Crucorney and journey through the heart of the
Black Mountains on the lonely road traversing the Vale of Ewyas. Llanthony Priory's photogenic ruins are worth
a visit. Continue over Gospel Pass, soaking up the moody moorland vistas. Drop anchor in charming Hay-on-
Wye, spending the afternoon rummaging through secondhand bookshops and antique shops. Have dinner at one
of the excellent pubs, then check out the funky Globe at Hay.
Three Days
Have a quick wander around Brecon in the morning, then continue towards Abergavenny. Some of Wales' best
eating places lurk in country lanes along this route, so book for lunch and dinner. Either spend the afternoon
walking off the calories, or head up to World Heritage-rated Blaenavon, a former mining town. Consider pretty
Crickhowell as a place to spend the night.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Monmouth (Trefynwy)
POP 10,500
Against a background of pastel-painted Georgian prosperity, the compact market town of
Monmouth bustles and thrives. It sits at the confluence of the Rivers Wye and Monnow,
and has hopped in and out of Wales over the centuries as the border shifted back and forth.
Today it feels more English than Welsh.
The town is famous as the birthplace of King Henry V, victor at the Battle of Agincourt
in 1415 and immortalised by Shakespeare. Other locals who have passed into history in-
clude the 12th-century historian Geoffrey of Monmouth and Charles Stewart Rolls, co-
founder of Rolls-Royce.
In modern times Monmouth's main claim to fame is the Rockfield recording studio, a
few miles to the northwest. Established in the 1960s, the studio has produced a string of
