Transport - Tanzania - page 687

UGANDA
There's no passenger-ferry service, but it's relatively easy to arrange passage between
Mwanza and Kampala's Port Bell on cargo ships (about 16 hours). Boats sail about three
times weekly. On the Ugandan side, you'll need a letter of permission from the train station
director (free). Ask for the managing director's office, on the 2nd floor of the building next
to Kampala's train station. In Mwanza, a letter isn't required, but check in with the immig-
ration officer at the South Port. Expect to pay about US$20, including port fees. Crew are
often willing to rent out their cabins for a negotiable extra fee.
ZAMBIA
The venerable MV Liemba has been plying the waters of Lake Tanganyika for the better
part of a century on one of Africa's classic adventure journeys. It connects Kigoma with
Mpulungu in Zambia every other week (1st/2nd/economy class US$66/56/41, US dollars
cash only, at least 40 hours; s/d VIP cabin US$264/330), stopping en route at various
lake shore villages, including Lagosa (for Mahale Mountains National Park; US$28 for 1st
class from Kigoma), Kalema (southwest of Mpanda; US$42), Kipili (US$48) and Kasanga
(southwest of Sumbawanga; US$63). In theory, departures from Kigoma are on Wednes-
day at 4pm, reaching Mpulungu Friday morning. Departures from Mpulungu are (again, in
theory) on Friday afternoon at about 2pm, arriving back in Kigoma on Sunday afternoon.
Delays are common. Food, soda, beer and bottled water are sold on board, but it's a good
idea to bring supplements. First class is surprisingly comfortable, with two clean bunks, a
window and a fan. Second-class cabins (four bunks) are poorly ventilated and uncomfort-
able. There are seats for third (economy) class passengers, but it's more comfortable to find
deck space for sleeping. Keep watch over your luggage. Booking (for inquiries 028-280
2811) early is advisable, but not always necessary, as 1st-class cabins are usually available.
There are docks at Kigoma, Kasanga and Mpulungu, but at all other stops you'll need to
disembark in the middle of the lake, exiting from a door in the side of the boat into small
boats that take you to shore. While it may sound adventurous, it can be rather nerve-wrack-
ing at night, and if the lake is rough.
Tours
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND
African Wildlife Safaris ( www.africanwildlifesafaris.com.au ) Customised trips to the
northern circuit parks and Zanzibar.
Classic Safari Company ( www.classicsafaricompany.com.au ) Upmarket customised itin-
eraries, including to the south and west.