Travel Reference
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priest, Polycarp Uehlein, in the mid-1970s. The paintings, which took about two
years to complete, are part of a series by the same artist decorating churches
throughout southern Tanzania and in a few other areas of the country, including
churches in Nyangao, Lindi, Malolo, Ngapa and Dar es Salaam. In addition to
their style and distinctive use of colour, the paintings are notable for their uni-
versalised portrayal of common biblical themes. The themes were chosen to as-
sist churchgoers to understand the sermons and to relate the biblical lessons to
their everyday lives.
During the years he has worked in Tanzania, Father Polycarp has taught sev-
eral African students. The best known of these is Henry Likonde from Mtwara,
who has taken biblical scenes and 'Africanised' them. You can see examples of
Likonde's work in the small church at the top of the hill in Mahurunga, south of
Mtwara near the Mozambican border, and in the cathedral in Songea.
SLEEPING
Drive-In Garden & Cliff Bar GUESTHOUSE $
( 0784-503007; Shangani; camping Tsh5000, r Tsh20,000; ) This friendly place has a
tiny area for camping with clean bucket baths and several simple, clean, good-value rooms,
plus a restaurant. Breakfast is not included in the room price. It's just inland from the beach,
although for swimming you'll need to walk up to the main Shangani beach near Shangani
junction. Go left at the main Shangani junction and follow the road paralleling the beach
for about 1.2km to the small signpost on your left. If you have trouble finding it, ask at
Safina Grocery Shop at the main Shangani junction.
VETA HOTEL $
( 023-233 4094; Shangani; s Tsh35,000, ste Tsh60,000; ) This large compound has
clean rooms, all with one large twin bed, fan, TV and views towards the water, plus a res-
taurant. It's in Shangani, about 200m back from the water (though there's no swimming
beach here). From the T-junction in Shangani, go left and continue for about 3km. There's
no public transport; taxis charge from Tsh5000 from town.
Southern Cross Hotel HOTEL $$
(Msemo; 023-233 3206; www.msemo.com ; Shangani; garden/deluxe/bungalow r
Tsh70,000/ 80,000/100,000; ) This popular and often full place has comfortable rooms
with fan, TV and sea-facing windows. Choose between garden rooms (smaller and set
slightly back from the water), larger waterfront rooms or spacious bungalows - the latter
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