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and local-style meals on order. A short walk down the cliffside is a small beach with high-
tide swimming. It's 1.5km from the town centre, behind the hospital and Tsh1500 in a ba-
jaji (tuk-tuk).
Big Blu GUESTHOUSE $
( 0784-918069; www.bigblumafia.org ; Chole Bay; d US$40; Jul-mid-April; )
This dive outfitter on the beach next to Mafia Island Lodge has three good-value en suite
rooms. It's primarily for divers with Big Blu, although anyone is welcome. Breakfast is in-
cluded; a restaurant is planned.
New Lizu Hotel GUESTHOUSE $
( 023-201 0180; Kilindoni; s/d Tsh15,000/20,000; ) This long-standing local guest-
house has spartan rooms with fan, cheap food on order and a central location at Kilindoni's
main junction, less than a 10-minute walk from both the airfield and the harbour.
There are several locally run guesthouses in Utende village:
Meremeta Guest House & Apartment GUESTHOUSE $
( 0715-345460, 0787-345460; r US$50) On the main road about 800m before the marine
park entry gate, with two simple but well-appointed budget rooms, and meals with advance
order. Look for the pink building and local artwork display.
Didimiza BUNGALOW $
( 0784-303554, 0658-303554; alawia75@yahoo.com; s/d/q US$30/35/60) This no-frills
local-style place was just getting started, but has already garnered positive feedback from
travellers. Accommodation is in two simple rooms, and meals and excursions can be ar-
ranged. It's inland, in grounds that still need sprucing up, and reached via a rickety bridge.
The water is a 10-minute walk away through the mangroves. Transport from Kilindoni
costs US$15 per person. The turn-off is signposted just before Meremeta, and is situated
about 1km before the marine park entry gate.
Utende Beach Camp BUNGALOW $
(Kifurukwe; 0755-828825; s/d US$20/30) On a steep hill overlooking the water
between Kinasi Lodge and Shamba Kilole, Utende has three tiny, no-frills bungalows with
food on order. Prices are set to rise somewhat in the near future, but even so, it's good
budget value. The turn-off from the main road is currently unsignposted, but just ask, and
look for a wooden sign reading 'Beach House'.
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